Birding in Svalbard: A Seasonal Guide to the Arctic's Great Wildlife Spectacle

I just got back from an incredible trip to Svalbard in May, where I embarked on an unforgettable week-long expedition cruise. 

It was fascinating to experience a place in transition, where the fjords were still partially frozen with brush ice, and the majestic mountains wore their snow blanket proudly. A place where the Arctic summer migration was just beginning to unfold.

Despite the tranquil atmosphere, I was thrilled to see some of Svalbard's most iconic birds returning early-season. Black-legged kittiwakes danced around the ice floes and the towering cliffs, while common and king eiders gathered in the calm fjord bays. Brünnich's guillemots were already making their way back to their nesting ledges, uniformly facing the rock like they were under some kind of avian curfew, whilst noisily preparing for what will soon be a bustling season filled with thousands of breeding seabirds. 

During this early season phase, I encountered a quieter yet equally stunning Svalbard. The Arctic terns were yet to return from their adventurous journey from Antarctica, and puffins were still few and far between, but we spotted a few small groups resting on the ocean. Many of the cliffs that would later come alive seemed almost serene. This unique timing, however, added to the richness of my experience. Instead of simply witnessing the peak of summer, I had the privilege of observing the Arctic awaken.

Svalbard's resident reindeer grazed on the newly revealed patches of tundra and recently pelagic fulmars returned to their rocky nesting colonies, gracefully riding the air currents created by our ship, the boutique Grand Explorer.

One of the most memorable sights was a solitary arctic fox, beautifully transitioning into its grey-brown summer coat, seeking bird eggs and blending with the transforming landscape, while still showcasing its winter tail. This fox perfectly represented a season in transition.

For bird enthusiasts, May is an incredible time to explore Svalbard, allowing for an intimate and awe-inspiring experience before the summer crowds arrive and the breeding colonies burst into full activity. One of the standout species during this period is the black-legged kittiwake. Their distinctive calls echo spectacularly from the cliffs and ice floes as they energetically establish their territories for the breeding season, creating a vibrant atmosphere that fills you with excitement. 

At sites like Alkefjellet, Brünnich's guillemots (or thick-billed murres) begin gathering in preparation for nesting. These cliffs come alive as they share space with other fascinating seabirds, including kittiwakes, northern fulmars, glaucous gulls, and even some little auks. Although the large colonies have yet to reach their peak, the early arrivals offer a thrilling glimpse of the bustling activity that lies ahead, promising an experience rich with life, noise, and breathtaking beauty. 

As you venture into the coastal waters and sheltered fjords, you will find common eiders widespread in these regions, while king eiders, arguably the most striking ducks of the Arctic, gracefully make their appearance offshore during the spring migration. We had the delightful chance to witness numerous king eiders flying closely to our Zodiacs, making it a breeze to snap photos, even with just a phone camera. 

Glaucous gulls add a sense of majesty to the landscapes, their pale plumage and strong physical presence marking them as unmistakable residents of the coastlines and seabird colonies. As dominant avian predators in this environment, they cleverly position themselves near the nesting birds. While it can be challenging to observe their predatory behavior, such as the unfortunate moments when they preyed on guillemots, it’s a stark reminder of the harsh realities of nature that unfolds in these breathtaking settings. 

The true highlight of May, however, lies in Svalbard’s stunning landscapes. The expansive sea ice provides a rare and captivating backdrop for birdwatching, visual appetites can be truly satiated here, as the scenery transforms dramatically later in the summer. One unforgettable experience occurred while snowshoeing in the serene Arctic desert, surrounded by an enveloping silence that was once described to me as the ‘sound of silence’ by a friend, and a former British Antarctic Director. In that peaceful moment, we were graced by the enchanting song of a snow bunting, the only songbird found in Svalbard. Hearing its melody resonate against the icy, snow-covered landscape was a truly beautiful and uplifting experience, one that perfectly encapsulated the magic of May in this remarkable part of the world.

By June, the seabird cliffs of Svalbard burst into life, creating one of Europe’s most breathtaking wildlife events! Millions of birds return to the archipelago to breed, and colonies of Brünnich's guillemots and little auks fill the scene, while charming kittiwakes crowd the narrow ledges above the sparkling sea. Look out for the delightful Atlantic puffins, particularly in western Svalbard, where they nest with other alcids! 

This month also marks the return of the magnificent Arctic terns, who embark on one of the longest migrations on Earth, from the Antarctic to the High Arctic, to breed during the magical polar summer. Their arrival not only signifies a seasonal shift but also ignites new life in the coastal habitats. For birdwatchers, June is a strong time to explore, offering an amazing mix of accessible locations, diverse species, and exciting breeding activity! And of course, those popular Terns.

July marks the peak of the breeding season, when bird colonies are at their most active. During this time, chicks are hatching, and the feeding flights become nearly constant. Even if you decided to stay on land in Longyearbyen, the birdlife in town is still remarkable. Little auks, arctic terns, snow buntings geese and eider ducks all around you. 

Alkefjellet transforms into one of the most remarkable birdwatching sites in the Arctic, and if you are visiting for birds, make sure this place is on your itinerary. It has tens of thousands of Brünnich’s guillemots crowding the towering basalt cliffs.

The little auks form dense feeding flocks offshore, while puffins are typically easiest to observe near the breeding colonies. The continuous daylight provided by the midnight sun allows for birdwatching at virtually any hour.

By August, the first signs of autumn begin to appear. Many seabird chicks have fledged, and breeding colonies start to thin out. Migratory species begin preparing for their journeys south, while some ducks and geese gather in larger flocks before departing. For photographers, this is an excellent time.

The light softens, wildlife remains abundant, and sea ice conditions often provide access to areas that might have been difficult to reach earlier in the season.