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Erika Commisso

polar bear in southeast greenland

Erika Commisso's East Greenland Expedition Log: Exploring Greenland Aboard Expedition Ship National Geographic Resolution

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Into the Unknown Ice Fjords: Follow Erika Commisso's daily log as she sails the largely unexplored fjords of Southeast Greenland. Her expedition journal is published each day, live from the ship.

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POV from kayak: photo credit erika commisso

For the next 10 days, ExplorEarth contributor Erika Commisso will be reporting live from one of the most remote coastlines on the planet as she joins an extraordinary voyage aboard the National Geographic Resolution.

Departing from Reykjavík, this isn't a typical expedition cruise following a familiar route between well-known landing sites. Instead, it's an opportunity to explore one of the least-visited stretches of East Greenland on a pioneering itinerary developed by Lindblad Expeditions.

Erika is also a US-based expedition sales specialist and an approved partner of ExplorEarth.

You can contact her using the links on this log or visit her partner page, Glacial Expeditions.

Erikka Commisso

Erika is an ExplorEarth-approved partner and can assist with your plans.

Day one | Embarkation Day

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Erika explores a sleeping igloo located on Deck 8 of national geograohic resolution: photo credit chris commisso

Embarkation day:  We are officially onboard the National Geographic Resolution, our home for the next 10 days, as we leave Reykjavík behind - the only port we’ll see for the entire voyage!!

This isn’t just another expedition cruise. It’s probably one of the most exciting itineraries we’ve ever been part of.

Unlike most expeditions, where there’s a planned route and a good idea of what each day will bring, this voyage is all about exploration. This is a brand-new itinerary for Lindblad Expeditions, and we’ll spend the next 10 days exploring the remote eastern edge of Greenland’s ice cap.

The captain and expedition team are just as excited as the guests. Together, we’ll venture into little/never visited fjords, navigate among towering icebergs, and adapt our course based on the ice, weather, and wildlife. Every day will be shaped by what nature has in store.

That’s what makes true expedition travel so special. There isn’t a script. There isn’t a checklist. There is only discovery.

Who knows what we’ll find over the next 10 days… but that’s exactly why we’re here.

Follow Glacial Expeditions on ExplorEarth as we share this incredible adventure from one of the wildest and least explored coastlines on Earth!

Day 2 | Crossing the Denmark Strait

Today was a full sea day as we crossed the Denmark Strait, making the 36-hour journey from Reykjavík to the remote east coast of Greenland. Tomorrow morning at 6:00 a.m., our Greenland adventure officially begins! 

Sea days on an expedition aren’t just about relaxing—they’re about preparing for everything that’s to come.

Today included:

  • Mandatory Zodiac safety briefing
  • Polar bear safety training
  • Responsible tourism presentations
  • Biosecurity gear inspections (every pair of boots, jackets, ski pants, mitts, hats, backpacks, and hiking poles had to be carefully cleaned and sanitized to ensure we don’t introduce anything into Greenland’s pristine environment.)
  • A photography workshop
  • A fascinating National Geographic storytelling lecture

And, of course, the Captain’s Welcome, where we learned about tomorrow’s exciting plans.

We’re already incredibly impressed with the National Geographic Resolution. The cabins are spacious with an amazing amount of storage, and nearly everywhere you go there’s a window offering incredible ocean views.

One of my favorite features is the outdoor viewing space. Whether you’re at the bow on Decks 5, 6, or 8 watching for wildlife, or relaxing at the expansive aft decks on 5, 6, 7, and 8, there’s always a perfect place to take in the scenery. We even spotted a few whales as we sailed! 

I also can’t get over how smooth and quiet this ship is. Even crossing open ocean, she’s remarkably stable—making it easy to enjoy every moment on deck.

As wonderful as today was, I think we’re all feeling the same anticipation…

Tomorrow morning, we wake up in Greenland.

A photography workshop lindblad expeditions

Day 3 | Exploring the uncharted Bernstorff Isfjord

What. A. Day!!!

At 6:00 a.m., we arrived at the mouth of Bernstorff Isfjord, a remote, uncharted fjord on Greenland’s spectacular east coast. From there, our adventure truly began!!!

For the next four hours, we sailed deeper and deeper into the fjord while the expedition team mapped the waters as we went. Around every bend was another breathtaking glacier, another field of sea ice, and some of the largest icebergs we’ve ever seen.

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Bernstorff Isfjord in southeast greenland: photo credit erika commisso

Captain Martin expertly navigated the National Geographic Resolution around, and even through, some absolutely massive icebergs, giving us views that were simply unforgettable.

When the ice became too thick, it was time to launch the Zodiacs! We cruised among the icebergs, getting an up-close look at the incredible frozen landscape that surrounded us from both above and below the water!!

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national geographic resolution in Bernstorff Isfjord: photo credit erika commisso

Then, after lunch, with calm seas, brilliant sunshine, and barely a breath of wind, the kayaks were deployed. Paddling quietly among the smaller icebergs was magical. While we floated (from a safe distance), we watched a glacier calve several times and even witnessed a giant iceberg slowly roll over before rocking back and forth in the water. It was one of those moments that remind you just how alive these icy landscapes really are.

The visibility was unbelievable. Although we couldn’t make it all the way to the end of the fjord because of the ice, we could see clear to the vast Greenland Ice Cap stretching across the horizon. 

Twelve unforgettable hours spent exploring one incredible fjord… and tomorrow we get to do it all over again in a brand-new place.

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erika and chris in kayak POV

Day 4 | Schested Fjord

Just when we thought yesterday couldn’t be topped… today proved us wrong.

This morning we sailed a little farther south into Schested Fjord, and it was incredible how different it felt from Bernstorff Isfjord. The fjord was narrower, packed with even more ice, and home to some of the largest icebergs we’ve encountered so far.

Captain Martin once again worked his magic, skillfully navigating the National Geographic Resolution around, and sometimes through, the towering icebergs. At one point, we made it incredibly close to the face of a glacier before the sea ice became too thick to continue.


Schested Fjord southeast greenland erika commisso
entering Schested Fjord in southeast greenland: photo credit erika commisso

Wildlife sightings kept us busy throughout the morning. We spotted several harbor and bearded seals relaxing along the shoreline, and I was thrilled to photograph something I’ve never seen before, a Polar Cod, swimming beside an iceberg!

Later, we explored another branch of the fjord, where the expedition team found the perfect landing site for us to officially set foot in Greenland and enjoy a variety of adventures.

I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to join a photography walk with legendary National Geographic photographer Ralph Lee Hopkins. We spent the afternoon learning to see the landscape differently, focusing on reflections, scale, and macro photography.

Meanwhile, Chris chose a very different adventure! He joined our Greenlandic naturalist, Lars, on a challenging 3-mile (5 km) round-trip hike, climbing nearly 600 feet. Spectacular views and even a sighting of ptarmigans!

erika in Schested Fjord southeast greenland erika commisso
Erika having landed in Schested Fjord

Back onboard, we enjoyed the daily recap and dinner, thinking our day of exploring had come to an end… But Captain Martin had one more surprise.

Instead of heading back toward open water, he decided to investigate one final branch of the fjord. With very little ice blocking our way, we were able to sail remarkably close to another glacier. Even the crew came out onto the decks with cameras in hand to take in the view.

As we slowly made our way back out, we passed flocks of eider ducks, spotted more harbor seals, and admired countless waterfalls cascading down the mountainsides, sparkling in the evening sunshine.

Two days in East Greenland… and each one has been completely different.

Tomorrow, we continue our journey farther south. We can’t wait to see what Greenland has in store next

Schested Fjord southeast greenland erika commisso (1)
Stunning fjord ice from the ship deck: photo credit erika commisso

Day 5 | Timmiarmiit Fjord

How is it possible that we’ve only been exploring East Greenland for three days?! Every fjord has been completely different, and somehow each day has been even more incredible than the last.

This morning we sailed into Timmiarmiit Fjord, and right away it felt unlike anything we’d seen before. The entrance was much wider, and the fjord stretched off into countless branches, each one inviting us to explore just a little farther.

Our day began with another landing. Guests could choose among a challenging 3-mile hike with nearly 600 feet of elevation gain, a shorter scenic hike, or a photography walk.

Timmiarmiit Fjord southeast Greenland
Timmiarmiit Fjord: photo credit Erika Commisso

For me, the choice was easy; I couldn’t pass up another chance to learn from legendary National Geographic photographer Ralph Lee Hopkins.

Almost as soon as we landed, we discovered something incredibly special: a Rock Ptarmigan nest with seven eggs. With the parents keeping a watchful eye nearby and our expedition team standing polar bear watch, we were free to quietly explore this beautiful Arctic landscape.

Back onboard, the culinary team surprised us with an incredible outdoor barbecue on deck.  Honestly… I’m still not sure which treat was bigger. - the spectacular gourmet doughnut display or the towering granite walls of the fjord sparkling in the sunshine as we sailed by.

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Sweet treats onboard National Geographic Resolution

Captain Martin guided the National Geographic Resolution into an uncharted branch of the fjord where we discovered a breathtaking waterfall cascading down the cliffs. We couldn’t believe how close he was able to bring the ship; we could almost feel the mist on our faces!

As we slowly backed away, the announcement everyone was waiting for whispered across the ship…

“BEAR!”

Within seconds, everyone quietly gathered on the bow with cameras and binoculars in hand. The polar bear was swimming toward us from the distance. Captain Martin gently stopped the ship and even backed up slightly to give the bear plenty of space. Whether he was curious about us… or maybe just smelled the barbecue (or those doughnuts!: - ), we’ll never know. He swam closer, climbed onto an iceberg for a better look, stretched out for a short nap, and then casually slipped back into the water before continuing on his way. An encounter we’ll never forget.

Polar Bear in southeast Greenland (1)
polar bear swimming towards ship in southeast greenland: photo credit erika commisso

As if that wasn’t enough, we soon spotted another polar bear… and at the very same time, four sperm whales surfaced around us. We didn’t know where to look!  Watching the whales rest quietly on the surface before taking one last deep breath and lifting their enormous tails as they disappeared beneath the water was mesmerizing, while nearby the second polar bear swam, dove, and almost seemed to porpoise through the water.

Just when we thought the surprises were over, the engines stopped yet again. This time, there wasn’t any wildlife… Instead, sitting in front of us was the largest and most unusual iceberg we’d seen on the entire voyage. It was bigger than the ship itself and shaped like a giant horseshoe. It honestly looked large enough for us to sail right inside it.

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After another fantastic expedition recap and a delicious dinner, we settled in for dessert. Or so we thought… The engines stopped one more time. We all laughed, left our dark chocolate mousse behind, and hurried back out onto the bow.

Polar Bear number three. This beautiful bear was peacefully sleeping on the sea ice. The ice was too thick for us to approach closely, but that was perfectly fine; we wanted to let it rest undisturbed.

8Sleeping Polar bear Southeast Greenland

Three polar bears. Four sperm whales. Countless icebergs. An unforgettable landing. One spectacular waterfall.

And another day we’ll be talking about for years!!

I honestly have no idea how our remaining days in East Greenland could possibly top these first three… but something tells me this expedition isn’t finished surprising us yet.

Day 6 | Expedition travel means expecting the unexpected

Today didn’t unfold quite the way any of us had planned.

Instead of spending another day exploring the spectacular Timmiarmiit Fjord, we woke to find the National Geographic Resolution cruising north along Greenland’s coast at 15 knots, the ship’s most efficient cruising speed.

Overnight, a guest experienced a medical emergency that required access to an airport as quickly as possible. While expedition ships are equipped with a medical clinic, a doctor, and a nurse, there are times when additional care ashore is needed. One of the realities of traveling to remote places is that plans can change in an instant, and seeing how quickly Captain Martin and the entire crew responded was incredibly reassuring.

Although we spent the day at sea, it turned into a wonderful opportunity to experience another side of expedition travel.

We attended three fascinating presentations from the expedition team. After yesterday’s unforgettable encounters with three polar bears, it was especially interesting to learn more about their biology, behavior, and the challenges they face in a changing Arctic.

We also enjoyed an insightful presentation about the culture and communities of East Greenland from one of our local Greenlandic guides, followed by a behind-the-scenes look at the design and construction of the National Geographic Resolution. Learning about the incredible engineering that allows this ship to safely explore places like Greenland made us appreciate her even more.

Later in the afternoon, we had the chance to tour several stateroom categories. One feature that really impressed us was the ship’s 14 dedicated solo cabins. Each one includes its own private balcony, a bed facing the ocean, and the same thoughtfully designed bathroom and storage found in the double cabins, a fantastic option for solo travelers. We also toured a Junior Suite and a Suite, both featuring spacious double-width balconies, comfortable living areas, and beautifully designed interiors. Honestly, there really isn’t a bad cabin on this ship!

Back in our room, another surprise was waiting—our invitation to the Cook’s Nook Zero Waste Dinner!!

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A course in the Cook’s Nook Zero Waste Dinner: photo credit erika commisso

Once during every voyage, each guest is invited to enjoy this intimate seven-course tasting experience, where the culinary team demonstrates how every part of carefully selected ingredients can be used to create exceptional dishes while dramatically reducing food waste. It was an inspiring reminder that sustainability isn’t just about where we travel, it’s also about how we prepare, enjoy, and respect our food.

As we departed Kulusuk, several humpback whales appeared alongside the ship, repeatedly lunge-feeding in the evening light. Watching these magnificent animals close out the day was the perfect reminder that even when an expedition doesn’t go according to plan, remarkable moments are never far away.

Tomorrow, we return to exploring East Greenland, and we can’t wait to see what adventure is waiting around the next fjord.
Kind Regards

Day 7 | Tasiilaq, Greenland

One of the wonderful things about expedition travel is that every now and then, a change of plans leads to an unexpected adventure.

Because yesterday’s medical emergency required us to sail north to Kulusuk, the expedition team decided to take advantage of our location and spend today visiting Tasiilaq, the largest community in East Greenland (approximately 2000 residents).

Tasiilaq in East Greenland
Tasiilaq, the largest community in East greenland: photo credit erika commisso

Perched above the ocean, Tasiilaq’s colorful homes were a beautiful welcome as we came ashore. Today’s adventures offered two choices: a longer hike through the mountains to waterfalls and wildflower-filled valleys, or a guided walking tour of the town.

Tasiilaq, the largest community in East greenland: photo credit erika commisso
Exploring Tasiilaq on foot: photo credit erika commisso

Chris couldn’t resist the hike—and it didn’t disappoint! He was rewarded with spectacular scenery, colorful wildflowers, cascading waterfalls, and plenty of birdlife.

I chose to explore the town, and it was a wonderful glimpse into everyday life in East Greenland. We visited the local museum and church, watched a talented artisan hand-carving reindeer antlers into beautiful works of art, browsed the grocery store, admired the colorful houses, photographed countless wildflowers, and even received visits from some adorable Greenlandic puppies. Most of all, we were welcomed with warm smiles from the local residents.

Greenlandic sled dog puppies
Greenlandic sled dog puppies, a breed of husky: photo credit erika commisso

It was an unexpected stop, but one we’re so grateful to have experienced. But now it’s time to turn south once again as we continue our expedition.

As we sailed away from Tasiilaq, thick fog settled over the water, and we assumed that evening wildlife viewing was probably over. So we did what any good expedition travelers would do… We headed to the daily 4:00 p.m. tea in the Observation Lounge.

Yes, there’s tea - but let’s be honest, it’s the incredible treats that steal the show! Every afternoon features something different. We’ve enjoyed Belgian waffles, gourmet cookies and tarts, and our personal favorite so far, a spectacular charcuterie spread loaded with cheeses, cured meats, fresh fruit, and even chocolate truffles.

Polar bear sweet treats
Polar bear sweet treats were on the afternoon tea menu: photo credit erika commisso

Just as we were happily spoiling our appetites before dinner, we noticed more and more seabirds flying outside the windows. The fog was lifting. That was all the encouragement we needed to head back out onto the bow. And we’re so glad we did!!!!

First came a humpback whale.

Then several harbor seals.

But the highlight of the evening was a pod of about 30 pilot whales traveling and porpoising together across the water. We think they were feeding because they stayed tightly grouped as they surfaced in perfect rhythm. It was our very first time seeing pilot whales in the wild, and to witness so many together was simply unforgettable!!

Polot Whales Greenland
pod of pilot whales in east greenland from ship deck: photo credit erika commisso

We wrapped up another incredible day with the expedition team’s nightly recap, a delicious dinner, and one of our favorite evening traditions, relaxing out on Deck 6 under the heaters and around the fire tables, sharing stories and laughter with the new friends we’ve made along the way.

Every day on this expedition has been completely different…

…and that’s exactly what makes it so special.

Day 8 | One last incredible day in Southeast Greenland

This morning we returned to Southeast Greenland and entered the spectacular Skjoldungen Fjord, a dramatic U-shaped fjord unlike any we’d visited before.

The water was crystal clear, there was very little sea ice, and the surrounding mountains were the most jagged and dramatic we’d seen on the entire expedition. Every direction seemed to reveal another breathtaking view.

We began our morning in Dronning Marie Dal, launching our kayaks into the glassy water. Paddling through this incredible landscape in complete silence. Next came a landing ashore, where we explored the shoreline, wandered through low-tide pools, and hiked across hillsides covered in grasses and colorful wildflowers. The scenery was absolutely stunning… although the mosquitoes and flies definitely wanted to make sure we remembered them too!

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By lunchtime, the sun had burned away the last of the morning fog, and the expedition team made an announcement that It was Polar Plunge time! A Zodiac is positioned alongside the ship with a submerged platform, making it easy to climb back out after your jump. And even better, Chris and I got to do our first-ever tandem Polar Plunge!

Yes, the water was freezing… But under the warm Arctic sunshine, it was surprisingly refreshing. In fact, we enjoyed it so much… we jumped in twice!

After warming up in the sauna, we sailed a short distance to the magnificent Thrym Glacier. What an incredible glacier. Towering above the fjord, it was easily one of the most impressive glaciers we’ve seen on this expedition.

But the adventure wasn’t over yet.

We climbed into the Zodiacs one last time for an unforgettable afternoon exploring the glacier up close. Along the way we admired waterfalls pouring down the cliffs, photographed hanging glaciers, and even received our official “Greenland Baptism” by sticking our heads beneath an icy waterfall!

As we made our way back toward the ship, we paused to admire a rocky island covered with eider ducks and several fluffy baby gulls before turning for one final look at the glacier.

Just then, another Zodiac quietly pulled alongside. The crew had brought us hot chocolate!

Sipping hot cocoa while gazing at one of Greenland’s most spectacular glaciers, felt like the perfect way to say goodbye to this extraordinary place.

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Back onboard, another surprise was waiting. We had been selected to spend the night in one of the ship’s two rooftop Igloos!  These cozy glass domes are transformed into a one-night glamping experience complete with a warm bed, incredible ocean views, and all the comforts needed for a memorable Arctic night under the sky.

But before we could settle in, the engines stopped one last time. Waiting at the mouth of the fjord was the largest iceberg we’d seen on the entire voyage, a magnificent cathedral-shaped giant with two towering spires rising high above the sea.

As waves crashed against it, the iceberg barely moved, a reminder that what we could see above the surface was only a small fraction of its true size.

It was the perfect final image of Greenland.

Iceberg

After another wonderful expedition recap, a delicious dinner, and a crew talent show that had everyone laughing, we climbed into our cozy igloo for the night. The crew had even tucked fuzzy hot water bottles beneath the blankets to keep us warm.

Waking up the next morning to fresh espresso, hot chocolate, and pastries delivered to our little Arctic glamping retreat was the perfect ending to an unforgettable expedition.

Tomorrow, we begin our journey back across the Denmark Strait to Reykjavík.

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Day 9 | One last log

Today we spent the entire day crossing the Denmark Strait, making our way back toward Reykjavík.

After eight unforgettable days, a quiet sea day was exactly what we needed.

The day was filled with conversations, laughter, and reminiscing with the wonderful new friends we’ve made throughout this expedition. It’s amazing how quickly strangers become friends when you share experiences like kayaking among icebergs, spotting polar bears, watching whales surface beside the ship, and exploring some of the most remote landscapes on Earth.

One of today’s highlights was a special presentation from Captain Martin, who shared breathtaking drone footage he captured throughout our voyage. Seeing the towering glaciers, winding fjords, and endless Arctic wilderness from above gave us an entirely new perspective on just how vast and spectacular this corner of Greenland truly is.

When we booked this expedition, we expected beautiful scenery and incredible wildlife. What we didn’t expect was just how completely Greenland would capture our hearts.

The scale of the glaciers… the silence of the fjords… the amount of wildlife… the warmth of the Greenlandic community… it all far exceeded our expectations.

So much so that we’re already planning our return. Next year, we’re looking forward to experiencing even more of this remarkable country, hosting a sailing that combines Iceland with another journey through the breathtaking fjords of East Greenland, while also exploring the towns and rich culture of West Greenland.

It’s rare for a destination to leave you wanting more before you’ve even left… Greenland is definitely one of those places.

Tomorrow we’ll arrive back in Reykjavík, but a part of us will still be somewhere among the glaciers, icebergs, and fjords of Greenland.


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