A helpful staging post for 48 Hours after a long flight from London via Madrid. There is a direct flight with BA, but Iberia were a better value, and a two-hour connection in Madrid was fine. We chose a two-night stay at the excellent Mandarin Oriental in Santiago to relax, reduce the risk of flight delays, and give us more time to acclimatise, albeit in luxury surroundings, for the excitement that lies ahead. We arrived at the hotel around 1030 and were very fortunate that our room was ready. For the rest of the day, we relaxed.

A bustling city of 7 million people – surrounded by snow-capped mountains. We had a full day to soak up the local culture. We chose to visit the main square, Plaza de Armas. First stop the Catedral Metropolitana. It was full of school children listening to a unique classical piano/flute and soprano concert – a fantastic local backdrop as we walked around the cathedral. Next, the smaller Museo Precolombino – an Aladdin’s Cave of artefacts from the early Aztec, Inca and Mayan cultures – the highlight was the textile exhibition, which showed how advanced this region of the world was in textiles at the time.

Our Dorling Kindersley guidebook recommended a stop at El Rapido for coffee and empanadas. Oh, how I wish I had learnt more languages – after an interesting exchange, we had ordered our empanadas, but with no clue as to what was about to arrive. Worry not – they were delicious. At this time of year, it’s warm in Santiago, so a chance to relax and prepare for colder times ahead. We were all set for the following day’s flight down to join the ship in Punta Arenas – cases outside by 2200, and we would not see them again until we joined the ship.

A flawless journey – and escorted all the way. We were on the first of 3 chartered Antarctica Airways flights, a 3-hour flight down to Punta Arenas. A private terminal at Santiago Airport issued our boarding cards during the hotel transfer, and we walked from the coach to board the aircraft in less than five minutes. A great flight with some Chilean Stew and a local beer – and we soon arrived in Punta Arenas. As we approached landing, all thoughts on the plane were on the weather and what lay ahead. It looked – and was - very, very windy with choppy white tipped waves as we approached over the Magellan Strait. I could sense a mix of excitement and trepidation as, at 2100, we were due to set sail into these winds – and if it’s that windy here, then what on earth will it be like as we get out into the open sea towards the Falkland Islands…

We boarded the ship 45 minutes later – at 1430 – in time for a quick sandwich and with our cases already in our suite. After a series of welcome and briefing meetings by the Expedition Leader – and a very nice dinner – I think pretty much everybody retired for an early night, having taken their seasickness pills (or applied their patches) – fully prepared for a challenging first night at sea…

Hang on – why is the ship so steady – and why can I see the same view of the dock as when we went to bed? At around 2200 last night, an hour after our scheduled departure, the Captain announced a technical problem and that we were unable to set sail. One must always be prepared for changes to an Expedition itinerary, but usually because of weather, rarely a technical fault. The ship was operating as normal, but there was an issue with the ‘back-up generator systems’ and, quite rightly, setting sail for Antarctica in this situation was not an option.

An accurate measure of a successful company is how well it recovers from such a challenge. At 0915, there was a briefing for everybody in the Explore Lounge. Specialist technicians were flying to join the ship but would not arrive until much later in the day, and it was not clear how long a resolution would take or what impact it would have on our voyage. The Expedition team already had a plan for the day in Punta Arenas, with three afternoon shore excursions to choose from. We decided to go on a hike through the Straits National Park, which was not too challenging and finished off with some local empanadas. Then it was back to the ship for an update on the technical issue. At 1800, we all sat in the Explorer Lounge – you could have heard a pin drop – when will we be departing and indeed will be sailing at all. The pin drop quickly turned into a round of applause. The technicians were arriving later that evening. We would still have the following day in Punta Arenas – but – they had chartered three aircraft and arranged a full-day trip into Patagonia, including a visit to the famous Torres del Paine National Park. No question that Silversea had their guests very much in mind – this was a very sizeable investment. So – off to dinner and early to bed – as breakfast was organised for 0445 the next morning with our departure to Patagonia from the ship at 0600.

Of course, we would all rather be on our way to the Falklands. We were due to be there on the 11th of November, Armistice Day, for a hike up Mount Stanley, where a two-minute silence to recognise all those who were lost in 1982 during the Falklands Conflict would have been very moving. However, seize the day – we were visiting one of the most spectacular sites in Patagonia, Torres del Paine.  And very spectacular it was. We took a short 30-minute flight to Puerto Natales, then visited Torres del Paine National Park for a hike beneath the spiky granite peaks of Cuernos del Paine, followed by a lunch of locally produced lamb. It was a long day – but an unexpected visit to one of the most famous sites in Patagonia. As we landed back in Punta Arenas, we could see that our ship had moved from her berth, and the zodiacs were waiting to collect us. What would the news be – was the ship fixed – can we finally get going – or were we going home? Our Expedition Leader was there to help everybody board the zodiacs – along with the good news that all was well and we would be sailing to Antarctica after dinner. Phew!

Waiting for us in our suite, and later endorsed with a further update after dinner, was our revised itinerary. We would go to the Antarctic Peninsula first, then Elephant Island, South Georgia, and a brief stop in the Falklands. So, with some minor changes, everything had been preserved, but we were going round in the opposite direction to what was initially planned. I have some insight into just what organisation that takes, not least with the booking of so many landing sites at short notice – highlighting the incredible skill and knowledge of Expedition Operators and the close co-operation with each destination.

So – here we go again – off to bed and ready for whatever the Drake Passage had in store for us…

One of the most famous stretches of water in the world connecting the southwestern Atlantic with the southeastern Pacific Oceans, it is named after Sir Francis Drake, who made the journey in 1578. So, what was it to be – the ‘Drake Shake’or the ‘Drake Lake’.

At midday on the 12th of November, our position was 59 South and 61 West, 223 Nautical miles from Punta Arenas and 317 Nautical miles to run to the Peninsula. The temperature was 3 degrees C, the wind was at 15 knots, and we were making good speed at an average of 14 knots. With the sea swell at just 2 metres, we were thankfully much closer to a ‘lake’ than a ‘shake’. The ship was pretty steady, and our sea-legs were beginning to adjust – best to hold onto the handrails around the ship-, but we were entering polar waters and looking forward to our first landing at Robert Point the following morning. During the two days spent crossing the passage, we had a series of briefings and lectures to ensure we were all well prepared. Impressive to hear the strict rules that we must all follow as laid down by IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Operators). Safety and protecting the environment are rightly very much top of mind – for example, the gloves and ski trousers I planned to wear ashore had to be inspected – some fluff on the Velcro was hoovered off – and all guests had to sign their compliance after inspection. As we neared the end of the passage, the sea was remarkably calm – and with great anticipation, it was early to bed with our first landing planned for 0815 the following morning at Robert Point.

I wake at 0430, a bit over-excited, snow on our balcony, Petrels flying alongside the ship, and we spot a whale spout not far from the ship as a giant iceberg comes into view. It’s happening. In the world of Expeditions, it is always good to have an ambitious plan A – but also Plans B, C, D and potentially more are often required. Everything is determined by the weather and by a safe operation. As per Plan A, we arrived at Robert Point at 0815 with the ship covered in snow; it was -5 Degrees, but there was too much swell on the beach to execute a landing. Without missing a beat, we sailed on for 20 nautical miles to Half Moon Bay and at 1030 after our first zodiac ride, we stepped ashore to be greeted by Penguins, Seals and a terrific 90-minute experience ashore. It was a chance for everybody to understand how the boot room works, how to get in and out of Zodiacs and how to manage the well-flagged routes ashore. 

It was apparent that some guests needed patience and etiquette lessons on navigating the ice and snow, but now that we had our first landing under our belts, we were all expert polar explorers. I often wonder what the Penguins make of these strange beings arriving in their midst. All wearing bright red jackets, with poles and cameras, unable to walk properly in the snow and ice, walking up and down hills and then disappearing again as quickly as they arrived. Observing penguins is one of the most joyous things in life. Whilst they may look awkward as they navigate their own terrain, they look more purposeful, industrious, and, in their unique way, hilarious than we humans. I love penguins.

Back onboard for lunch, and we are all sharing stories of who saw what, who had a problem with gravity and who took far too much gear ashore. We were looking forward to our 2nd landing of the day at Yankee Harbour this afternoon. It was a different experience as we got close to the Gentoo Penguins building and sat on their nests. Now and then, one would stand up to stretch, and we could see the egg that they were nurturing. Mum and Dad take it in turns – either sitting on the egg or going out fishing – very democratic behaviour. You would be amazed at how much noise a ‘waddle’ of penguins can make to support each other. Yes – a ‘waddle’ is what you call a group of penguins on land, and at sea they are referred to as a ‘raft’.

On returning to the ship, there was time to reflect – during a swim and a jacuzzi – and it is so important to take the time each day to reflect on the very special experiences that nature and wildlife provide in this incredible part of the world, and on how fortunate we are to experience them.  Then it was time for tomorrow's briefing, dinner, and early to bed.

Day 2 in Antarctica, and it’s not too cold at -5 degrees, with two activities planned for the day. Activities can be of three types: A Landing, a Landing and Zodiac Cruise or a Zodiac Cruise. Typically, you are off the ship for circa 2 hours in the morning and 2 hours in the afternoon. Early mornings are often the norm with the first zodiacs leaving the ship between 0730 and 0830 and the last zodiac back to the ship at circa 1730 with a briefing for the next day at 1830. It’s a very democratic system; everybody is allocated a Zodiac Group number, and each day the Group order is adjusted – and don’t worry, there is always time for an early breakfast and relaxing lunch.

So, how was our day? I would sum it up in the same way as our Expedition Team member George did on our way back from the morning landing and cruise – ‘Porpoising Penguins, Humpback Whales, Seals and stunning scenery – yes, that makes for a special morning’. More about the humpbacks in a second, but earlier on our landing at Mickelson Harbour, we were able to observe many Gentoo Penguins. I got my first close-up sight of a Penguin egg as Mum or Dad stood up to fend off a fellow Penguin who was looking to steal pebbles from the nest for the building of their own nest nearby. We are all learning about the wildlife and how to spot it. From our Zodiac, we spotted our first spouting of a whale, then a brief glimpse of its fin before it disappeared. George assured us it had first come up to breathe, would shortly re-appear, and, if we were fortunate, would rise again before diving to feed, and we might see the fluke. Up it came just 50 yards away, and we saw the fin rise, followed by the magnificent sight of the tail rising and the underside of the fluke as it dived.  There had been much exciting chatter in our Zodiac up to this point, but it is hard to describe the emotion of seeing your first humpback whale close-up and in such glory. We were all silent, a sign of the deep awe, respect, and, yes, love we have for these incredible creatures.

This afternoon, we had a 90-minute Zodiac cruise at Cierva Cove to explore the surrounding ice and icebergs. I shan’t tell you what we learned, as not only are the sights difficult to describe, but it’s really something you will have to come and see for yourselves. Cierva Cove is a very beautiful place, surrounded by high peaks and more ice and snow than you can imagine. We spent time observing seals on a smaller iceberg. As the zodiac crept back through the sea ice toward the ship, we spotted the blow of a whale. Surely not another sighting, this morning was spectacular enough – but yes, we all watched in silence as the whale rose, dived and showed its magnificent fluke. And then – as we waited no more than 50 yards from the ship – up popped another one – were we in Antarctica or were we in heaven – I think a mixture of both.

I had time for a swim back onboard, at -5 degrees since the pool was heated, followed by a cold beer, and then off to the briefing for the next day. Lovely dinner – the Indian chefs onboard prepared a lovely Rogan Josh Curry – turns out we really are in heaven after all.

For purists, today was the first landing on the mainland 7th continent, as our first two days were on some of the many islands. Those brave enough took on quite a challenging hike on an icy climb up a steep slope. The Expedition Team marked out a zig-zag route, and it was not long before our adventurous travellers set off as their zodiacs landed. Not all persevered to the top – but those that did were surprised to see a colony of Gentoo Penguins – they, of course, would make the journey up and down the slope each day to go fishing and did so without warm jackets, boots, gloves and hiking poles. Penguins look so sleek and gracious as they porpoise through the water, but on land, they do look rather clumsy, whilst at the same time fascinating to observe. I love Penguins. 

We sailed to Wilhelmina Bay for the afternoon, featuring a zodiac cruise amongst the icebergs and sea ice. We happened across a Leopard Seal with her pup – a rare sight at this time of year, as most seal pups would by now be young and free adults. We also saw several humpback whales as the bay is a good feeding ground with plenty of Krill. Krill support much of the wildlife in Antarctica, a small, swimming shrimp-like crustacean at 2-3cm long, thriving in large schools called ‘swarms’, sometimes reaching 10k-20k per cubic metre. A Humpback, on average, will consume over a ton of Krill each day – that’s a lot. Penguins also eat krill and fish. As much as I love Penguins, their pooh, or, better known, guano, is very smelly. But their guano also plays an integral part in the ecosystem. The snow-white Sheathbill bird eats penguin guano, and it also acts as a fertiliser. And then there is the predator Skua bird – you can see them soaring above penguin colonies in search of eggs or chicks – and swooping down to steal them if the Penguins lift off their nest even for a few seconds. It’s wonderful to observe this flourishing ecosystem, especially in such harsh conditions.

The ’Polar Plunge’ has become a feature of Antarctica voyages. It’s a mad thing to do, and around a third of guests on board took the plunge this afternoon. After completing a health questionnaire, signing a waiver, with a harness and rope attached, I leapt from the landing platform into the Antarctic. The sea temperature was 0.5 degrees – I have ever experienced such cold. We jumped in pairs and I later had to apologise to the fellow guest I plunged with as the video taken of the event by my wife showed that as we both came back up to the surface – it was best man for himself as far as I was concerned as I showed no mercy as I made sure I was first to climb the later back onto the zodiac. When I climbed back on board, I was asked for my suite number – my brain was still frozen, and I had no clue. On hearing the news of this feat and seeing the video, my daughter’s WhatsApp messages were unanimous: ‘Dad, you are Mad’. Mad, yes – but now I do have a Polar Plunge Certificate and another special memory. Not many people have been ‘in’ Antarctica to that extent.

A few tips from our experience. Walking Poles are handy – either one or two, and it’s best to bring your own. You never know what conditions will be like, and having poles will help with balance. Use your binoculars from aboard before it’s your turn to go ashore, and you will get a good idea of the conditions ashore and if you need your poles. You will likely be provided with a water bottle and a rucksack.  Throughout, the landings or zodiac cruises last 90-120 minutes. We did not see the need to take a water bottle or a rucksack – some guests did if they had large cameras. Having too much gear with you can be a faff – but you will soon learn what works best for you. If the sea looks a bit choppy, then try to manoeuvre things as you board, so you don’t sit at the front of the zodiac, as in that position, you will be protecting others by absorbing any splashes that can happen. But the most critical thing in a zodiac is to do what you are told. Your zodiac leaders give clear instructions at all times and will give everyone a chance to get the best views and photo opportunities.

One other essential tip. Photo opportunities are terrific and constant. But - on your landings and zodiac cruises, try first to keep your phone or your camera in your pocket – and just look, listen and take in the remarkable sights you are experiencing – it’s such a special place and the sights, smells and sounds just keep coming. Once you have really soaked up your surroundings, then there is plenty of time to take those remarkable photos and videos.

Our last day in the Antarctic Peninsula. We have had four days of remarkable experiences in the most perfect conditions with calm seas and plenty of sunshine. All our planned landings had gone ahead, and the experiences exceeded every expectation. The focus of our journey now, as we arrive at Elephant Island and then head to South Georgia, falls to the history and achievements of Sir Ernest Shackleton. I have read many books about his explorations – including his own book and account of his journey ‘South’. We were now retracing that journey in the very same seas – but in very different surroundings.

Having spent many days trapped on the ice floes after the ice had taken his ship Endurance to the bottom of the Weddell Sea, and after the ice floes broke up, his group of 28 men had escaped on three lifeboats into fierce seas in search of land. At 0500 this morning, I woke to see Elephant Island ahead of us. It was a very different approach to the island that Shackelton’s men had encountered in April 2016. They were wet and freezing, having endured massive seas, with little fresh water, biscuits and seal meat running out and in temperatures of -20 degrees. On landing on Elephant Island, Shackleton wrote that:

Our approach to Elephant Island was a tad different with scrambled eggs, a flat white coffee and wrapped up warm, ready to board the zodiacs. But we too were excited, this is one of the most inhospitable spots in the world, and we were present at the small spit of rocks where Shackelton’s men hunkered down under their two lifeboats for 4.5 months through an Antarctic Winter as Shackelton and five of his men set sail again in search of rescue. We just had the one zodiac cruise this morning to get up close to where Shackleton’s men hunkered down below towering cliffs. The spot is marked by a statue of Captain Luis Pardo, who later came back with Shackleton to rescue his men some 4.5 months later. We set sail again later that morning, and as we left the bay, we saw several Fin Whales. The changed order of our itinerary meant that our next destination was South Georgia, some 800 nautical miles away, and we are now truly following in the footsteps of Shackleton – and the weather forecast for the Scotia Sea over the next two days looks daunting.

Up till now, the weather and sea state had been kind to us. At our daily briefing last night, we heard that, due to heavy ice and icebergs in the Scotia Sea, we would first have to head north through big seas before heading to South Georgia. In April 2016, Shackleton made the very same decision, first to head north to avoid icebergs – nothing has changed in that respect. At midday on the second day, the  Captain updated us on the weather. Our position was 55 South and 39 West; we had travelled 654 nautical miles from Elephant Island and had 183 nautical miles to run to South Georgia, with wind gusting to 50 knots, wave height 4.5 to 5 metres, speed through the water 14 knots, and temperature 0 degrees. It was an uncomfortable and bumpy two days, but with a bit of help from seasickness pills and our confident sea legs, it was not too bad. I could only think of how Shackelton and his men endured far worse in the same seas for 14 days.

Our ship is 514 feet in length compared to their boat, the James Caird, at 22 feet in length – and certainly without the fine dining available to us. During this time at sea, we attended several lectures about South Georgia wildlife, the Whaling Industry and Shackleton’s adventures. Over the two days I read again Shackleton’s own description of this part of his journey. We visited the Bridge, and the Captain showed us the ship’s different navigational and weather systems. It was interesting to note that they use the ‘WindyApp’ as part of their weather forecasting and voyage planning, as I too had been looking at it through the voyage. On the James Caird, they were ‘alone, alone, all, all alone, alone on a wide, wide sea’. Frostbite was a problem. They had enough provisions so long as they made it to South Georgia. Worsley’s navigation was miraculous under such conditions, and he was only able to take three sextant sightings during their 800-mile journey. On the 14th day, they caught their first glimpse of the black cliffs of South Georgia – against all odds, they had made it. 

I was up early at 0530 to experience our first sighting of South Georgia, and soon, through the mist and snow, those same steep, black cliffs that Shackleton and his men had seen came into view through my binoculars. We sailed into Gritviken, but Shackleton had landed on the other side of the island from the busy whaling station in Gritviken. Not wanting to set sail again in case they were blown out to sea, he decided to take two men and trek over the 3,000 metre mountains to Gritviken. 

Our first landing this morning was to visit Shackelton’s grave – situated on the slopes outside Gritviken. He had died whilst in South Georgia on a subsequent expedition in 1922 at the age of just 47. We gathered in silence around his grave and raised a toast with a tot of Irish Bushmills Whisky. The toast was to ‘The Boss’ as that is how his men fondly remembered him. We also had time to visit the deserted whaling station, which was far bigger than I had imagined and one of seven whaling stations on South Georgia. It’s hard to believe how and why over 175,000 whales were slaughtered here, not least in that the destination of much of the whale oil went to light London’s streetlamps. All whaling was rightly and thankfully stopped here in the 1960s. It was eerie to walk around the ghost-like station amongst giant steel machinery and whale-oil tanks now lying rusting just as they were left 60 years ago.

At full capacity, over 300 men worked here, and up to 20 humpback and blue whales would be processed each day. We caught sight of our first King Penguins and Elephant Seals, excited in the knowledge that tomorrow we would be visiting two King Penguin Colonies in South Georgia. Before setting off back to the ship, we witnessed two Elephant Seals fighting on the beach. The king of the beach is known as the ‘Beachmaster’ – the largest and strongest, and with first choice of his many mating partners. A younger, but enormous, Elephant Seal was trying to claim the position. His attempt had not been going well, and to see the two square up to each other and growl was like being in an Attenborough documentary. Bloodied and probably very sensibly, the pretender withdrew into the water and surfaced close to our zodiac – it was time to move on. 

Back on board for lunch as the ship sailed the short journey round the coast to Stromness – the sight of Shackleton’s first landing on South Georgia. We hiked 2.5 km from the beach landing, welcomed by thousands of penguins and seals, to a waterfall at the base of the mountains. It was this very spot, after a 3-day trek over the mountains, that Shackelton found the fresh water of this waterfall and ahead could see, and probably smell, the whaling station. We then walked in his footsteps back down the valley to the whaling station, all the way marvelling both at the beauty of our surroundings and thoughts of his arrival, which was the first step in going on to the remarkable rescue of his men back on Elephant Island some 4.5 months later.

We then took a 60-minute zodiac cruise around to visit the biggest whaling station on the islands - Leith Harbour - before returning to the ship. It was now late afternoon, the sun was shining in the deep blue sky, the wind had dropped, and the sea was like glass, reflecting the magnificent mountains. From time to time, we slowed to wonder at elephant seals, penguins, shags, giant petrels and cormorants. As we arrived back on board, it was time for a cold beer and to reflect on the day. Shackleton’s story has played a significant part in my professional life over the last 8 years, and today was a day I shall remember forever. I can genuinely say that the sights, sounds and snow-capped mountains of South Georgia late this afternoon were the most beautiful and inspiring sights I have ever seen in all my travels over the years.

So today was going to be all about King Penguins. You will know by now that it’s no secret that I love Penguins – and no exaggeration that today would again feel like being in one of David Attenborough’s documentaries.

This morning, we started in Fortuna Bay, on the very beach where Shackelton set off on his climb across the mountains to Gritviken. It was a wet-landing, but as ever the skill of the Expedition Team and zodiac drivers was exemplary, and we were safely ashore – and dry. We had been advised to be careful of the male fur seals. They arrive before the females, each choosing a patch of land that will be their territory, and they will fiercely protect it. Each owns an area of perhaps 100 square meters, and as the females arrive, each will have a ‘harem’ of possibly 10-20 seals so that the mating can begin. Our first challenge was not to get in their way. We were headed for a King Penguin colony about 1 mile from the beach. On the way, we passed small groups of penguins who were clumped together and moulting. Each year, over a period of 2-3 weeks, they replace all their feathers, and they stand in one place, not moving or eating until the process is finished. And then – there it was – a huge colony of King Penguins and our first sighting of penguin pups. Most were around 9-10 months old – nearly as tall as their parents but still in their adorable brown fluffy feathers. It was a remarkable sight. We did not stay long as the ship was repositioning to Salisbury Plain for the afternoon, where we would witness another remarkable sight.

Same as this morning and a safe landing on the beach at Salisbury Plain, but the sight that greeted us is hard to describe. Along the coast in both directions and for as far as we could see were many, many thousands of King Penguins, Fur Seals and Elephant Seals. The walk to the colony was again around a mile. As we approached, one of the guides said we should prepare ourselves for something very special. We came over a slight rise, and there it was – an estimated 250,000 King Penguins. I had seen photos of many penguin colonies, but to be here, to hear their orchestral sound, and to see the stark yet beautiful black-and-white King Penguins standing proud with their gorgeous brown pups was remarkable – in fact, after almost two weeks in Antarctica, I had finally run out of superlatives. Of course, a first reaction is to reach for your phone or camera. As I did so, my wife put her arm on mine to stop me and motioned for me to close my eyes and listen. Bach, Mozart, Coldplay, or the Beatles – sorry, but the sound of 250,000 King Penguins with their pups trumps you all and by some margin.

After pups are born, Mum and Dad take it in turns to nurse their pup and to go fishing. When I say "fishing," they will go out to sea for up to two weeks, cover over 200 miles, dive to over 400 meters to fish, and, when they return to the colony, listen for the calls of their partners and pup and find their way home. These are incredible, resilient and beautiful creatures, as well as being beautifully clumsy ashore as a ‘waddle’ of penguins. I am often asked if, when travelling to Antarctica, it is best to do the shorter Peninsula trip, or take the much longer journey to include Elephant Island, South Georgia and the Falklands, albeit with more sea days—these past few days in Elephant Island and South Georgia confirmed to me what I had always thought. If you can afford the time and investment, my advice is to take the longer trip, as each destination and experience is uniquely different, and the overall combination of some of the most remarkable experiences in the world is a joy to behold.

Two sea days to cover the 700 Nautical Miles to the Falkland Islands, time to relax and enjoy the onboard experience and a whole series of educational lectures on topics covering Geology, Wildlife, History and Photography tips. The sea was again kind to us at an average wave height of 2 meters, and all was well. But wait – surely not another surprise. At 0730 on the 2nd morning, our Expedition Leader announced that the Captain had managed to make a small diversion and for the next two hours, we would be sailing alongside Iceberg A23a.

It’s the largest iceberg in the world at three times the size of New York City, having broken off from the Filchner Ice Shelf in 1986. It remained grounded in the Weddell Sea for 30 years but broke free and is now on its way towards South Georgia as it breaks up. Trust me, we have seen some magnificent icebergs in recent days – but this one really is very cool in both senses of the word. It filled the horizon with all shapes and sizes, and Captain proved his worth by threading his way (safely) through giant bergs on either side of the ship. Wow!

A very different experience today, and this time reflecting on history and the Falklands conflict of 1982. After two days at sea, we were ready for some fresh air and exercise. We set off with a small group on a 3-hour hike up Mount William and Mount Tumbledown. Our local guides were terrific, and we were surprised by the variety of plants and flowers in what had, at first glance, looked like a barren landscape. We paused as we approached Mount Tumbledown. This is where the British Troops had gathered, ready for their final push into Port Stanley. To our left, Mount William, which was to be attacked by the Gurkhas and to our right, Mount Tumbledown which was to be taken in a fierce battle by the Scots Guards. As it turned out, the Gurkhas faced no resistance, but the Scots Guards did, and sadly, there was a significant loss of life for both the Argentine and British troops. 

We reached the summit of Tumbledown and saw the moving memorial cross –in the distance was Port Stanley, which was bravely relieved on June 14th, 1982. As we descended towards Stanley, three British Typhoons roared overhead. The British base is some 30 miles away, another remarkable event on our journey. We paused at the memorial on the way back into our own to see the monument and the names of all the British troops who were sadly lost in the conflict.  Just above the memorial lies ‘Thatcher Street’ and a statue of Margaret Thatcher, looking down on it. There was one more thing to do – to visit the Pub in Stanley where we had a very nice pint of ‘Iron Lady’ – yes, her memory certainly lives on in this remote part of the world. There was a tremendous sense of community in Port Stanley, yes, it is a very long way from anywhere, but the almost 4,000 population have things well under control with strong education, healthcare, farming, fishing and a surprisingly interesting landscape.

Eighteen days on board has been a long time, and as we sail homewards, our thoughts are with the many magnificent experiences we have witnessed. Landscapes, ice, penguins, whales, seals, zodiacs, photography, lectures, briefings, icebergs, and it seems wherever we were, the constant presence of dramatic mountains was looking over and after us all. We had also been able to retrace so much remarkable history, following in the journey and footsteps of Shackleton as well as the ghost-like whaling stations of South Georgia. There were just under 200 of us sharing this journey – many nationalities and a real sense of camaraderie.

We were extremely well looked after on board and, apart from the very bumpy 800 miles from Elephant Island to South Georgia, the weather had been kind to us. I knew it would be the case, but much more so than I expected – the real heroes of the journey had been the Expedition Leader and her team of 20. More often, we achieved Plan A – but where the weather or operational challenges intervened, the Plans A, B, C, D…. were also magnificent – we were always safe and in good hands.

We had arrived back in Chile. It was time to say goodbye to the marvellous Officers, Crew and Expedition Team as well as our fellow explorers. We flew from Puerto Williams to Santiago, overnighted in Santiago, and then took the long journey home to the UK. Antarctica is a long way to go – but worth every moment and every penny for the experience we shared in this incredible part of the world.

We had all been in this together – sailing almost 4,000 nautical miles as guests, ship’s company and Expedition team. We had witnessed and experienced so much and eaten so much. Antarctica is often described as one of the most inhospitable places on earth, but we do not feel that way, as we were so well looked after. We will all, I am sure, cherish our time in this special place – a place that is as it has always been. We leave as ambassadors to tell the stories of what we discovered. My overriding thought is how, today and in the future, how vital all the good work that IAATO and all the operators do to make these experiences possible. They must continue to do all they can to protect and nurture this very special place and its wildlife. As I walked down the gangway, having said farewell, those who know me well will not be surprised to hear that I shed several tears…