A helpful staging post for 48 Hours after a long flight from London via Madrid. There is a direct flight with BA, but Iberia were a better value, and a two-hour connection in Madrid was fine. We chose a two-night stay at the excellent Mandarin Oriental in Santiago to relax, reduce the risk of flight delays, and give us more time to acclimatise, albeit in luxury surroundings, for the excitement that lies ahead. We arrived at the hotel around 1030 and were very fortunate that our room was ready. For the rest of the day, we relaxed.

A bustling city of 7 million people – surrounded by snow-capped mountains. We had a full day to soak up the local culture. We chose to visit the main square, Plaza de Armas. First stop the Catedral Metropolitana. It was full of school children listening to a unique classical piano/flute and soprano concert – a fantastic local backdrop as we walked around the cathedral. Next, the smaller Museo Precolombino – an Aladdin’s Cave of artefacts from the early Aztec, Inca and Mayan cultures – the highlight was the textile exhibition, which showed how advanced this region of the world was in textiles at the time.

Our Dorling Kindersley guidebook recommended a stop at El Rapido for coffee and empanadas. Oh, how I wish I had learnt more languages – after an interesting exchange, we had ordered our empanadas, but with no clue as to what was about to arrive. Worry not – they were delicious. At this time of year, it’s warm in Santiago, so a chance to relax and prepare for colder times ahead. We were all set for the following day’s flight down to join the ship in Punta Arenas – cases outside by 2200, and we would not see them again until we joined the ship.

A flawless journey – and escorted all the way. We were on the first of 3 chartered Antarctica Airways flights, a 3-hour flight down to Punta Arenas. A private terminal at Santiago Airport issued our boarding cards during the hotel transfer, and we walked from the coach to board the aircraft in less than five minutes. A great flight with some Chilean Stew and a local beer – and we soon arrived in Punta Arenas. As we approached landing, all thoughts on the plane were on the weather and what lay ahead. It looked – and was - very, very windy with choppy white tipped waves as we approached over the Magellan Strait. I could sense a mix of excitement and trepidation as, at 2100, we were due to set sail into these winds – and if it’s that windy here, then what on earth will it be like as we get out into the open sea towards the Falkland Islands…

We boarded the ship 45 minutes later – at 1430 – in time for a quick sandwich and with our cases already in our suite. After a series of welcome and briefing meetings by the Expedition Leader – and a very nice dinner – I think pretty much everybody retired for an early night, having taken their seasickness pills (or applied their patches) – fully prepared for a challenging first night at sea…

Hang on – why is the ship so steady – and why can I see the same view of the dock as when we went to bed? At around 2200 last night, an hour after our scheduled departure, the Captain announced a technical problem and that we were unable to set sail. One must always be prepared for changes to an Expedition itinerary, but usually because of weather, rarely a technical fault. The ship was operating as normal, but there was an issue with the ‘back-up generator systems’ and, quite rightly, setting sail for Antarctica in this situation was not an option.

An accurate measure of a successful company is how well it recovers from such a challenge. At 0915, there was a briefing for everybody in the Explore Lounge. Specialist technicians were flying to join the ship but would not arrive until much later in the day, and it was not clear how long a resolution would take or what impact it would have on our voyage. The Expedition team already had a plan for the day in Punta Arenas, with three afternoon shore excursions to choose from. We decided to go on a hike through the Straits National Park, which was not too challenging and finished off with some local empanadas. Then it was back to the ship for an update on the technical issue. At 1800, we all sat in the Explorer Lounge – you could have heard a pin drop – when will we be departing and indeed will be sailing at all. The pin drop quickly turned into a round of applause. The technicians were arriving later that evening. We would still have the following day in Punta Arenas – but – they had chartered three aircraft and arranged a full-day trip into Patagonia, including a visit to the famous Torres del Paine National Park. No question that Silversea had their guests very much in mind – this was a very sizeable investment. So – off to dinner and early to bed – as breakfast was organised for 0445 the next morning with our departure to Patagonia from the ship at 0600.

Of course, we would all rather be on our way to the Falklands. We were due to be there on the 11th of November, Armistice Day, for a hike up Mount Stanley, where a two-minute silence to recognise all those who were lost in 1982 during the Falklands Conflict would have been very moving. However, seize the day – we were visiting one of the most spectacular sites in Patagonia, Torres del Paine.  And very spectacular it was. We took a short 30-minute flight to Puerto Natales, then visited Torres del Paine National Park for a hike beneath the spiky granite peaks of Cuernos del Paine, followed by a lunch of locally produced lamb. It was a long day – but an unexpected visit to one of the most famous sites in Patagonia. As we landed back in Punta Arenas, we could see that our ship had moved from her berth, and the zodiacs were waiting to collect us. What would the news be – was the ship fixed – can we finally get going – or were we going home? Our Expedition Leader was there to help everybody board the zodiacs – along with the good news that all was well and we would be sailing to Antarctica after dinner. Phew!

Waiting for us in our suite, and later endorsed with a further update after dinner, was our revised itinerary. We would go to the Antarctic Peninsula first, then Elephant Island, South Georgia, and a brief stop in the Falklands. So, with some minor changes, everything had been preserved, but we were going round in the opposite direction to what was initially planned. I have some insight into just what organisation that takes, not least with the booking of so many landing sites at short notice – highlighting the incredible skill and knowledge of Expedition Operators and the close co-operation with each destination.

So – here we go again – off to bed and ready for whatever the Drake Passage had in store for us…

One of the most famous stretches of water in the world connecting the southwestern Atlantic with the southeastern Pacific Oceans, it is named after Sir Francis Drake, who made the journey in 1578. So, what was it to be – the ‘Drake Shake’or the ‘Drake Lake’.

At midday on the 12th of November, our position was 59 South and 61 West, 223 Nautical miles from Punta Arenas and 317 Nautical miles to run to the Peninsula. The temperature was 3 degrees C, the wind was at 15 knots, and we were making good speed at an average of 14 knots. With the sea swell at just 2 metres, we were thankfully much closer to a ‘lake’ than a ‘shake’. The ship was pretty steady, and our sea-legs were beginning to adjust – best to hold onto the handrails around the ship-, but we were entering polar waters and looking forward to our first landing at Robert Point the following morning. During the two days spent crossing the passage, we had a series of briefings and lectures to ensure we were all well prepared. Impressive to hear the strict rules that we must all follow as laid down by IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Operators). Safety and protecting the environment are rightly very much top of mind – for example, the gloves and ski trousers I planned to wear ashore had to be inspected – some fluff on the Velcro was hoovered off – and all guests had to sign their compliance after inspection. As we neared the end of the passage, the sea was remarkably calm – and with great anticipation, it was early to bed with our first landing planned for 0815 the following morning at Robert Point.

I wake at 0430, a bit over-excited, snow on our balcony, Petrels flying alongside the ship, and we spot a whale spout not far from the ship as a giant iceberg comes into view. It’s happening. In the world of Expeditions, it is always good to have an ambitious plan A – but also Plans B, C, D and potentially more are often required. Everything is determined by the weather and by a safe operation. As per Plan A, we arrived at Robert Point at 0815 with the ship covered in snow; it was -5 Degrees, but there was too much swell on the beach to execute a landing. Without missing a beat, we sailed on for 20 nautical miles to Half Moon Bay and at 1030 after our first zodiac ride, we stepped ashore to be greeted by Penguins, Seals and a terrific 90-minute experience ashore. It was a chance for everybody to understand how the boot room works, how to get in and out of Zodiacs and how to manage the well-flagged routes ashore. 

It was apparent that some guests needed patience and etiquette lessons on navigating the ice and snow, but now that we had our first landing under our belts, we were all expert polar explorers. I often wonder what the Penguins make of these strange beings arriving in their midst. All wearing bright red jackets, with poles and cameras, unable to walk properly in the snow and ice, walking up and down hills and then disappearing again as quickly as they arrived. Observing penguins is one of the most joyous things in life. Whilst they may look awkward as they navigate their own terrain, they look more purposeful, industrious, and, in their unique way, hilarious than we humans. I love penguins.

Back onboard for lunch, and we are all sharing stories of who saw what, who had a problem with gravity and who took far too much gear ashore. We were looking forward to our 2nd landing of the day at Yankee Harbour this afternoon. It was a different experience as we got close to the Gentoo Penguins building and sat on their nests. Now and then, one would stand up to stretch, and we could see the egg that they were nurturing. Mum and Dad take it in turns – either sitting on the egg or going out fishing – very democratic behaviour. You would be amazed at how much noise a ‘waddle’ of penguins can make to support each other. Yes – a ‘waddle’ is what you call a group of penguins on land, and at sea they are referred to as a ‘raft’.

On returning to the ship, there was time to reflect – during a swim and a jacuzzi – and it is so important to take the time each day to reflect on the very special experiences that nature and wildlife provide in this incredible part of the world, and on how fortunate we are to experience them.  Then it was time for tomorrow's briefing, dinner, and early to bed.