Where Sea Lions Ask You To Play: Mexico's Sea of Cortés aboard a small expedition ship

Few places capture the richness of marine life quite like Mexico's Sea of Cortés. Described by pioneering oceanographer Jacques Cousteau as "the world's aquarium", its warm, plankton-rich waters attract everything from blue whales and playful sea lions to huge pods of dolphins and an astonishing diversity of fish. Exploring aboard a small expedition ship allows travellers to experience this remarkable ecosystem at water level, where every day is shaped not by a timetable, but by nature itself.

The sea lion pup looked me straight in the eyes and said, "Come on, let's play." It's times like that when you wish you had spent hundreds on an underwater camera at the airport duty-free shop, but trust me, even if you don't, the memory will stay with you forever.

In fact, for me, this cruise started as we banked to land at the airport in Cabo, at the southern end of Mexico's Baja Peninsula, and, looking down, I saw three humpback whales cavorting in the clear waters at the end of the runway. It is the whales that most people take this cruise for, as in the plankton-rich warm waters, grey, humpback, pilot, and even the world’s largest creature, the blue whale, are all found.

I had travelled to Mexico's Sea of Cortés aboard the 84-guest expedition ship, Safari Endeavour. The cruises on this small ship are flexible in what you see and what you wear on board and at dinner, and they focus on delivering wildlife over nightlife, life-changing encounters rather than formal evening entertainment.

Quality over quantity.

From day one, you are immersed in one of the world's great marine wildlife spectacles. Pods of dolphins race towards the ship to ride the bow wave, mobula rays launch themselves clear of the water and whales regularly breach before crashing back into the Sea of Cortés. There is scarcely a moment when the ocean isn't alive with movement.

Our first day saw us landing on the pure white sands of the island of Espíritu Santo, and from this beach we set off on our first snorkelling safari. The snorkelling has to be some of the finest anywhere. Once I got my confidence back, realising that the wetsuit issued to me on the ship, along with flippers and a snorkel, would keep me afloat, I simply lay on the surface, watching the stunning colours of the fish and coral below.

Activities on this cruise are not confined to the underwater world. Kayaking in and out of hidden bays and sea caves, paddleboarding and hiking, plus riding mules through the cactus-strewn desert, are also on offer. It may be called a desert, but it is full of life, from shimmering emerald hummingbirds to multicoloured lizards scurrying across the dusty tracks. Towering cacti provide perches for countless birds, while red-headed turkey vultures circle overhead, seemingly checking that you're still breathing.

All equipment for these activities is provided on board and carefully fitted to each guest. Those looking for something more relaxing can enjoy wellness classes, massage and yoga throughout the voyage.

The Sea of Cortés has long been known as the Wine Red Sea, and it isn't difficult to understand why. More than once I woke before dawn to watch the first light spread across the water, turning both sea and sky deep shades of crimson while the rugged desert mountains were silhouetted between them. They were some of the most memorable sunrises I've ever experienced.

Life on board is every bit as relaxed as the landscape itself. Rather than following a rigid schedule, each day offers a choice of adventures, allowing you to shape the expedition around your own interests.

One morning you might kayak through quiet sea caves or snorkel over vibrant reefs; the next you may choose nothing more demanding than being dropped on a deserted beach to swim, sunbathe or simply enjoy the silence. When you're ready to return, all you have to do is stand by the shoreline wearing your lifejacket, and the expedition team will come ashore to collect you.

The beauty of this cruise is the spontaneity of it all.

Once, while we were boarding the DIB to go ashore at the small fishing hamlet of Agua Verde, the crew spotted splashes about a mile away and immediately altered course to investigate. Moments later we found ourselves surrounded by rays launching themselves clear of the water in every direction.

On another occasion, similar splashes revealed something entirely different. We motored towards them, only to discover a school of around 200 dolphins. We simply stopped in the middle of the pod and watched them leap, twist and turn around us, putting on a performance that no itinerary could ever promise.

These unexpected encounters are what make expedition cruising so rewarding. Nature dictates the schedule and every day has the potential to surprise you.

History and culture are not forgotten either.

We visited the historic town of Loreto, where the first Spanish mission in southern California was established in the seventeenth century. Although there was an optional guided tour, we chose instead to sit in a café drinking tequila, eating tacos and chatting with local people who were keen to practise their English. Even those who spoke very little of the language joined in the conversation, laughing and joking with us as the afternoon drifted by.

Another memorable evening saw the crew organise a bonfire on an isolated beach. With no light pollution anywhere nearby, we lay back beneath an astonishing canopy of stars while enjoying an informal talk on the constellations, Irish coffee in hand. In keeping with the expedition's respect for the environment, every trace of the fire was packed away and returned to the ship before we left the beach.

If one moment defines this voyage, it is snorkelling with sea lion pups at Los Islotes, a dramatic rocky outcrop rising straight from the Sea of Cortés. Beneath the surface, they move with astonishing speed and agility, yet their curiosity is even more remarkable. They swim straight towards you, pause to look you directly in the eye and, every so often, brush gently against you with a flipper, as if inviting you to join their underwater world. 

It wasn't just the sea lions that took my breath away. Cormorants plunged beside us into vast shoals of silver fish that parted to allow the birds through, revealing yet another even larger shoal beneath. Reds, golds and silvers shimmered around us before opening once again to expose colourful coral and king angelfish darting between the rocks.

If the Galápagos is on your wish list, don't overlook the Sea of Cortés. It is one of the world's great wildlife destinations, where every day brings another unforgettable moment.

We believe that Baja California challenges one of the core assumptions of expedition travel, that the most meaningful experiences are found in the most extreme environments. It demonstrates that proximity, when combined with the right ecosystem and the right operators, can be just as powerful as remoteness.

In many ways, Baja is not an alternative to the expedition travel we understand; it is more a refinement of it. A place where the format becomes more immediate, more interactive, and more accessible without losing its depth.

And that is precisely why it remains one of the most compelling and most overlooked destinations in expedition travel today.