West Papua & Indonesia

A welcome breeze cools my face as the Zodiac zips into Triton Bay. The sun rises across the cobalt sky, and there isn’t a cloud. Surrounding us are the most extraordinary mushroom-shaped limestone rocks; the sea-etched and eroded karst bases resemble thick tree stumps, while the tops overflow with abundant vegetation such as ferns and cycads. As we reach the shallow crystalline waters, the inflatable powerboat – carrying just eight of us – slows so our guide can manoeuvre through the coral reef and towards the beaming white sand beach ahead.

Located within the Kaimana Marine Protected Area of West Papua, a province of Indonesia, Triton Bay is set amidst a rich and diverse underwater ecosystem – packed with marine life, including soft leather and staghorn corals. It is also home to many fish species such as butterfly, angel, parrot and triggerfish – and, to my joy, the odd white tip reef shark. This particular region of Indonesia has long been a draw for Scuba divers. However, it has only recently become a regular part of the small cruise ship schedule. Nearby Cenderawasih Bay, sometimes added as a stop on itineraries, is known for its year-round sightings of whale sharks – particularly when the 10+-metre giants encroach on local fishing boats to feed.