West Papua & Indonesia

• Raja Ampat

This region's primary sailing season is between March and May and October and January. The weather is typically hot and dry, between 26°C and 32°C. While not all itineraries are the same, the stops mentioned are frequently built into Indonesia's expedition itineraries. Expedition leaders determine landings in real-time according to weather, swell, and tides.

Itineraries to Indonesia tend to last 16 days and include several expedition stops. Numerous expedition cruise lines currently operate voyages in the area, some as far west as Sumatra.

Mosquitos can be prevalent in mangroves and villages, so take insect repellent. During the day, sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat are highly recommended.

This part of the world is all about small-ship cruising. Some ships are all about luxury; others offer kayaking, paddleboarding, hikes, and guided walks.

West Papua, Indonesia has it all and offers a range of exciting activities for adventure seekers on expedition ships. The area is renowned for its rich marine biodiversity and is considered a top destination for scuba diving and snorkelling. The coral reefs are home to varied marine life, including manta rays, sharks, and colourful fish, and the trees to birds of paradise. 

Visitors can also explore the calm waters around the ship and islands of West Papua by kayak or paddleboard (SUP). This allows for a closer look at the coastline, hidden coves, and mangrove forests.

West Papua and Indonesia boast rich biodiversity and unique ecosystems. West Papua, located on the western half of the island of New Guinea, is home to some of the world's most distinctive and diverse wildlife, primarily due to its location in the Indo-Pacific region.

Indonesia, an archipelago of thousands of islands, features a wide range of habitats, from dense rainforests to vast marine environments, contributing to its immense biodiversity.

Numerous local and international efforts are aimed at conserving the unique wildlife of West Papua and Indonesia. Protected areas, wildlife reserves, and national parks play a crucial role alongside community-based conservation programs and international collaborations.

Further west, and at the heart of the Indonesian archipelago are the volcanic UNESCO Heritage Sunda Islands. Komodo, home to the famous Komodo National Park, is undoubtedly a highlight on any Indonesian expedition itinerary. Why? Because this is the only place in the world to see the famous Komodo dragon in its natural habitat.

On arrival at the park, we are assigned a local guide, before being led on a small group tour within the reserve. Fascinating details about the physiology and behaviour of these myth-like creatures are unleashed – such as how adult dragons can grow up to three metres and weigh 70kg; or how they tend to feed on deer and wild boar which are found roaming the surrounding grasslands. My particular favourite is how the venom in Komodo dragon saliva causes a drop in blood pressure in the prey, leading to shock. We’re also quickly reminded that it could easily have a human for a meal.

There are three important rules to take onboard at Komodo. Firstly, always keep to the path led by the guide. Next, remain quiet – dragons are easily disturbed by noise. And, finally, don’t make any sudden movements – take pictures slowly and quietly. Every so often, the guide points up to the sky to point out the circling Brahminy kites. The tour is entertaining, thorough and provides us with a wealth of knowledge – not only about the dragons, but also the islands that pepper this length of the Java Sea.

Later in the day, the Zodiacs return to Komodo – this time in the form of a taxi service, transporting guests to the cool nearby waters of Pink Beach. A superyacht hotspot, where the sea runs clear and the coral-formed sand glistens like pink crystals under the sun, it’s the perfect spot for a sundowner and to reminisce about the day.

If there’s one thing I’ve learnt on this expedition, it’s that a voyage through Indonesia is a trip packed with paradise islands, culture, history and wildlife. No two expeditions will be the same, but you are guaranteed to experience a bit of everything in this lesser-visited part of the world.

The previous stop on this diverse voyage had taken me to the stilt village of Syuru, which sprawls along the banks of the Asmat River in Papua province. As the Zodiacs approach, we are greeted by 85 dugout canoes—each loaded with men and boys dressed in traditional plant-weaved attire—with spears in hand. The convoy of boats is led by the Chief, whose position is distinct through the extravagant headdress decorated with white birds of paradise feathers.

Decades ago, this was how Syuru villagers would have met any strange boat coming into their waters; their spears and chants would have been used to intimidate and scare intruders. This time, however, they are welcoming us with an age-old tradition, although their mantras remain powerful and ferocious. More ceremonies follow, including a coming-of-age ceremony – that sees the younger men wildly leaping and dancing around their parents in a riotous and liberating show. The tradition is relived for the sake of tourism, but it remains at the heart of generational storytelling.

Reaching from West Papua in the west to the New Guinea border in the east, Papua province is home to around 3.4 million people. Incredibly, the region’s heritage is thought to date back 48,000 years. However, since the 16th Century, English, Spanish, German and Dutch explorers have passed through these waters – with Papuans living under Dutch rule until 1962, when they handed leadership over to the United Nations Temporary Executive Authority and then the Republic of Indonesia. Today, it thrives as an autonomous province under Indonesian rule – unlike West Papua, which continues its fight for autonomy from Indonesian military forces.

From West Papua, the voyage takes us across vast stretches of eastern Indonesian islands to the Maluku group—a route chartered and colloquially labelled as the 'Spice Islands' by 16th-century European explorers. It was here, on the island of Banda Neira, that the trading of nutmeg and mace with islanders began. A small town of the same name remains the gateway to this richly resourced region.

Home to a predominantly Muslim population and with a heritage dating back as far as 40,000 years, the Banda islands have welcomed several waves of migration that have continually brought new traditions and beliefs to the region. This includes Islam, which arrived here in the 1300s through merchants from Arabia. Not long after this, Europeans discovered the region's natural riches.

Arriving on the rickety wooden pier, I instantly feel like I have entered history. An old mosque sits in the town centre, and previously elegant colonial mansions line the streets. I imagine the buzz when the large merchant ships once arrived here, ready to fill up with exotic entities that, until then, had remained locked away in this quiet corner of the world.

Our first visit is to Belgica, a pentagon-shaped fort built by the Dutch in 1611 to protect against local uprisings and possible threats from other colonial arrivals. With towering bastions positioned at each corner, guests wander through pink and white blooms that fill the courtyard and take in the sea views from along the refurbished walls.

At the crux of Banda Neira's economy and fame is the native Myristica tree, an evergreen plant cultivated for fruit, which yields seeds for nutmeg and mace production. Today, Myristica can be spotted across the Maluku Islands and into West Papua, as well as in areas of the Caribbean, Central America and India. Yet, until the 18th Century, the Banda Islands were the only place in the world where the Myristica tree grew – making this unassuming region of Indonesia quite the hit with colonial leaders.

Our visit is made all the more special with an introduction to a local producer, who demonstrates how the nutmeg fruit is plucked from the tree and dried before the seeds are extracted and ground to produce the spice. The shell of the fruit is also dehydrated to form mace. Afterwards, guests are allowed to buy small packets of spice, with the reassurance that the product comes directly from cultivators who work hard to grow these globally valued trees. I buy a selection, knowing my tourist dollars go back into local livelihoods and the economy.