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Jamie Lafferty

Northern Gannet off Grassholm Island Jamie Lafferty

My Gannet Teacher

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How a British Isles Expedition Cruise Alerted Me to Birding and Citizen Science

Gannet Image Rosie B Wild
Northern Gannet: Photo Credit Rosie B Wild

Portsmouth, on the south coast of England, is not the best scene setter for an expedition cruise. Still, like many other embarkation ports, its transport links, easy berthing, and dedicated passenger terminal make it an ideal starting point. So, as with many expeditions dating back hundreds of years, the aesthetics of the departing backdrop becomes far less important than the logistics.

But as the sun descended and our purpose-built, high-tech expedition ship silently slipped out of Portsmouth harbour, everything looked serene and beautiful, even the jarring juxtaposition of the giant military ships and cruise liners with HMS Victory, the world's oldest naval vessel still in commission, with 246 years of ‘technical’ service.

This exit passage from Portsmouth harbour was basked in a golden but temperamental haze and marked the start of an early summer adventure. The weather, a typical blend of the meeting of British seasons, hinted at the need for a winter (and waterproof) coat. The passenger mix was eclectic and broad; if presented as a pie chart, it would have been three equal wedges: Australians, Americans, and Europeans (including us Brits…).

The ship’s itinerary was exciting for me personally, with ports that included Fowey in Cornwall, Tresco, and its botanical feast that thrives in the Abbey Gardens on the subtropical Isles of Scilly, and, most importantly for me, Lundy Island in the Bristol Channel. Lundy was a place I had explored in-depth as a child with my late father; it was an island with no cars, few humans, and exceptional wildlife. It does have its own brewery, though!

Landing directly on sea ice from ice breaker ship

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Discover
  • Introduction to expedition cruises
  • Stories & Guides from leading travel writers
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Sylvia Earle ship in Sam Ford Fjord Arctic Burnham Arlidge
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Compare
  • Which destination is right for you
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Walrus resting on sea ice with M/S Stockholm in the background, showcasing Arctic wildlife and expedition cruising.
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  • Hundreds of expedition cruises to compare
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