French Polynesia destination overview

Mention that you've visited French Polynesia, and it will usually elicit gasps of envy with at least one person proclaiming they've always wanted to go there – often followed by an admission that they can't quite pinpoint where 'there' is, or, indeed, which islands make up the remarkable destination, beyond Tahiti. It's hardly surprising, though, given the sheer number of isles and their remote location.
 
A dream port of call for many, French Polynesia is the collective name for a set of island archipelagos in the South Pacific Ocean. Situated midway between Australia and South America, they're spread over a vast area, roughly the size of Europe – so large, in fact, that you'll find yourself ever-expanding a digital map to locate them. But, once you do home in on the island nation, a French overseas collectivity, you'll want to visit as many of the archipelagos as you can. It's best then to opt for a small ship cruise, and preferably an itinerary that keeps you there long enough to set foot on at least one or two of the island groups.

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French Polynesia map


When and how to travel

If you're joining a cruise, it's likely you'll begin your trip by flying into Tahiti's international airport and boarding your ship at the main port in Papeete.

The Society Islands are the best-known of all the French Polynesian archipelagos, with the main island, Tahiti, the most populated (nearly 70% of French Polynesia's population calls it home). Stay a few nights in Tahiti, or head to one or two of the surrounding isles and atolls. Moorea, Huahine, Bora Bora, Taha'a and Raiatea are popular tourism destinations, served by airports and local ferry services from Tahiti – making ideal add-ons before or after your cruise.

While some of the outlying islands do have airports, for a real taste of the region, a Marquesan cruise will take you about 1,500 km northeast of Papeete to the six inhabited isles – Nuku Hiva, Ua Huka, Ua Pou, Hiva Oa, Fatu Hiva and Tahuata. The Marquesas' indigenous name is Te Henua Enata. The islands are lauded for their marine wildernesses and pristine environments and have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2024. Without barrier reefs, these islands rise up out of the ocean, their basalt peaks and forests often shrouded in mist. The islands are covered in flowers and fruit-bearing trees, from hibiscus, bougainvillea and frangipani to coconut and noni fruit.

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Weather watch

With only a wet and dry season in French Polynesia, most cruises typically operate during the dry season, which starts around May and runs until the end of October. The climate is tropical, with temperatures around 25-30°C (77-86°F). In the dry season, expect sunshine and calm days, while the wet season can bring rain, humidity and the chance of storms.


Ship types

Overwater dining in Tahiti at sunset with a modern catamaran sailing past in the golden light.
Sunset drinks in Tahiti with views of a passing catamaran: Photo Credit Nori Jemil

There are several ways to experience the islands, from small ship cruising (including hybrid cargo-passenger ships) to yacht charters and luxury vessels. Bear in mind that the locally owned operators know the islands inside out – in fact, the guides and crew are invariably Polynesian, hailing from across all five island groups.

The hybrid cargo-passenger ships allow for whole-day excursions (usually while cargo is being unloaded). Larger ships may visit fewer islands, with several 7-night itineraries that take in Tahiti, Huahine, Taha'a and Moorea. These would suit those looking to snorkel and swim, or in search of lazy days on paradise islands.

All cruises aim to bring something of the culture of French Polynesia on board, with activities such as pandanus or reed weaving classes and hula dancing, often taught by islander crew members. With special menus that highlight local produce, including raw fish marinated in coconut and lime juice or pork and chicken slow-baked with banana and breadfruit, you'll get a taste of Polynesia on board too.

Longer trips of around 14 days allow time to visit the Marquesas or Austral and Gambier island groups. There is usually a chance to spend time with island communities and explore their artisanal markets, with bone and wood carvings in ancient designs, basket weaving and paintings, each specific to its island home.


Activities

With so much marine diversity, French Polynesia is known as a diver's paradise. Underwater adventures include diving with blacktip reef sharks and sea turtles. The atolls of the Society and Tuamotu Islands are fabulous for snorkelling, given their shallow lagoons and surrounding coral reef systems. Rangiroa's dive sites and the biosphere reserve of Fakarava are perfect diving spots – book ahead with your cruise company or local providers. In the Marquesas, diving is available for PADI-certified divers at Hiva Oa.

This is really where islands like Tahiti and the rugged topography and lush interiors of the Marquesas Islands come into their own. Guided by locals who know the best viewpoints and hidden valleys and waterfalls, you'll be amazed by the beauty of these emerald isles, often eclipsed in travel marketing by the more iconic images of beaches and lagoons.

Hiva Oa, known as the Garden of the Marquesas, is home to the largest tikis, or stone sculptures, in French Polynesia, while petroglyphs in Taioha'e on Fatu Hiva will delight history lovers. In Atuona, the graves of Jacques Brel and Paul Gauguin attract art and music fans.
Nuku Hiva island has a memorial to Herman Melville, whose novel Typee (1846) is based on his experiences of living in the Taipivai Valley in the 19th century. The largest of the Marquesas Islands, Nuku Hiva, is the administrative capital of the three northern group islands – Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou and Ua Huka. The village of Taioha'e has a cathedral, Our Lady of the Marquesas, that points to the success of French Catholic missionaries in French Polynesia, while the ancient archaeological site at Hatiheu has a sacred banyan tree that serves as one of the original places of worship.

Ua Huka is known as a horse island, with around 1,500 horses. Take the opportunity to get a vantage point like no other as you're gently guided from the port up to the Te Temu Museum, featuring a unique exhibition of ancient Polynesian artefacts, including traditional stone and wood tikis.

Since 2002, French Polynesia has been classed as a sanctuary for sea mammals and cetaceans. Between July and November, humpback whales return to give birth in the region's warm waters. While you might see them from the shore or on board, booking a whale watching trip in advance is advisable. Moorea is one of the few locations on earth where it's possible to swim and snorkel with whales.

The islands are known for their rare birds, including the endangered ultramarine lorikeet. The Fatu Hiva monarch bird that lives only in one valley is critically endangered, with a population so small a combined effort by Auckland Zoo and the Ornithological Society of Polynesia is hoping to save it from extinction (from avian flu, non-indigenous rats and feral cats) with an in-situ breeding programme. 


Cultural Insights

A Tiare Greeting On Fakarava
Tiare greeting on Fakarava – a warm Polynesian welcome: Photo Credit Nori Jemil

There are many reasons to visit French Polynesia, and culture is very high on this list. From the minute you land, you’ll be greeted by a very genuine musical welcome – with ukulele and voices gently calling you ashore. You’ll be garlanded with a necklace of shells or local tiare and hibiscus flowers. On some of the islands, local inhabitants will perform the haka, a ceremonial dance, at ancient sites.

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What to pack

Clothing
With the warm weather and island excursions, you'll want to be comfortable and ready for walking, visiting local markets and participating in waterside activities.

The following are recommended:

  • Sturdy walking sandals
  • Trainers or walking shoes for longer treks ashore
  • Neoprene shoes for swimming and paddling on the atolls
  • Thin, long-sleeved shirt for protection from the sun
  • Lightweight trousers or shorts
  • Sunhat
  • Swimwear
  • Sarong
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6 Walking In The Marquesas Islands 3722
Walking in the Marquesas Islands: Photo Credit Nori Jemil

Expert Tips

Travelling to the South Pacific from Europe is quite the journey in itself, so you’ll want to make the most of this trip of a lifetime. On days at sea to the outlying islands, join onboard lectures or music or dance classes. These are an authentic part of what islanders will show you once you arrive – and immersion in French Polynesia’s cultural life will make your experience so much richer.

The islanders also talk of the spirit of the place, the mana, and it’s possibly what the indefinable magic is of visiting this part of the world. The longer you spend chatting with local people, the more likely you are to experience mana for yourself, so take all opportunities for shore excursions.

If you have time in Tahiti, aim to do an island tour – it’s small enough to see in a half day. 4WD trips that cut through the interior are an adventure, showing you the lush interior and waterfalls that contrast with the urban areas and beaches, as well giving you the chance to find out more about the history of the island.

You should also aim to see Mo'orea if it’s not on your itinerary. It’s something of a pearl of the region, with wildlife encounters, perfect beaches and beautiful hotels offering spa treatments – make sure wherever you spend your evenings on the islands, you head out for cocktail hour – the sunsets here are sublime.

And if you speak a little French or can pick up a few Tahitian phrases while you’re here, so much the better.