Ushuaia is way more than just a port city and the Gateway to Antarctica. It has a lot to offer its guests. One of Ushuaia's nicknames is the End of the World. I guess, the question is: is it really the End or only the Beginning of everything?

Do you know that feeling when you are looking out of the plane window and holding your breath at how beautiful the view is? It happens to me every time I'm about to land in Ushuaia. Getting a window seat on the Buenos Aires—Ushuaia flight is a must for me. Today is no exception. I'm buckling up in my 21E, ready for a miraculous show followed by a cheerful though a little bumpy landing.

Flying above Tierra del Fuego is a spectacle on its own: silver rivers run like veins through the relief muscles of the mountains, shiny glaciers and snow cover the mountain peaks. The Beagle Channel carries on to reach the Drake Passage somewhere far away. I envy Andean condors because they can see this view anytime they want. For those of us on board the plane, it lasts about 20 minutes — if we are lucky and the sky is not too cloudy.

It's nearly 10 pm, but it's still bright outside. The sky is painted with blue, pink and peach watercolours. And then you spot the roads leading to low-rise buildings and see Ushuaia, a small city on the Beagle Channel.

The Ushuaia Airport is surrounded by water on three sides. It sits on a man-made peninsula that extends into the Beagle Channel. When you are looking out the plane window, it creates the illusion that the plane is about to land on water. Ushuaia welcomes passengers of our flight with 11°C weather in the middle of the Southern Hemisphere's summer. Not too bad, given that we are less than 1,000 kilometres away from Antarctica.

Ushuaia's airport looks like a mountain lodge. The wooden interior and large windows with incredible views make you feel instantly immersed in Patagonia the moment you step off the plane. I'm so happy to be here. Fresh air, long days and incredible scenery take away any worries of big city life. If it weren't so late, I would go hiking straight from the airport, but I have to wait until the morning to start exploring.

Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world and the capital of the Argentine province of Tierra del Fuego. Tierra del Fuego means "Land of Fire" in Spanish. A romantic in me was hoping that the sunrises were the reason Tierra del Fuego was named this way. Sunrises in Ushuaia look like fire in the sky. Just search for 'Amanecer en Ushuaia' images online and you will see what I mean. However, it isn't the case. In 1520, while sailing for the Spanish Crown, Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan saw numerous fires burning along the shore and called this place the "Land of Smoke". The fires were kindled by the indigenous Yaghan (Yámana) people. The 'Land of Smoke' was later changed to the 'Land of Fire'. So the name has nothing to do with amazing sunrises; however, it provides us with a glimpse into the history of Ushuaia.

This cold land has a very warm heart. Locals are genuinely friendly and welcoming. Tourism makes locals feel more connected to the rest of the world. Before the cruises in the summer and skiers in the winter started coming here, residents of Ushuaia felt quite isolated from the rest of Argentina. The city was considered something remote and wild. The image of the city was also affected by the fact that in the early 20th century, Argentina established a penal colony in Ushuaia, which operated from 1902 until 1947. Since then, Ushuaia has transformed from an isolated outpost into a thriving tourist destination. Today, it is better known for its breathtaking landscapes, diverse birdlife, exciting mountain slopes and its status as the Gateway to Antarctica.

The population of Ushuaia is around 82,000 people. Though not very big, the city boasts a university, a hospital, an international airport, a port, supermarkets, hotels, museums, schools, a ski resort and various shops and restaurants. Tourism plays an integral part in the city's economy.

One of the main activities in the city is to wander around the main street, shop for souvenirs and taste artisanal chocolates. Patagonia is renowned for producing some of the world's finest chocolate. And for me, good chocolate is well worth a journey to the very edge of the world.

Ushuaia isn't a fancy city. People don't really dress up when they go out for dinner. Comfort and warmth here are far more important. The city lacks the 'pretentious' bone in its body. It's very honest about what it is. Winds here are strong, people are kind and food portions are huge.

With little doubt (but with a slight personal preference for the outdoors), the best activity you can enjoy in Ushuaia is hiking. There are plenty of options for all ages, physical levels and timeframes. 

One of the most famous trails is the hike to Laguna Esmeralda. It can get a little busy during high season, but for a good reason. The views on the way are splendid, it isn't very long nor too short, about 9 kilometres (out and back). This hike is a combination of forest, wetlands, a glacial river and the cherry on top — an emerald green glacial lake (hence the name of the hike).

The ones looking for off-the-beaten-track trails could enjoy a Bahia Cucharita hike. Not many tourists know about this hike. You can take in the views on the Beagle Channel and mountains on the Chilean side of Tierra del Fuego along the way.

There are also many hikes to choose from within the Tierra del Fuego National Park. Some of them are relatively moderate and flat, for example, the Hito XXIV hike will take you to the border with Chile. It is also a popular trail for birding. 

Birdlife and wildlife in Ushuaia attract tourists from all over the world. Guanacos, whales, penguins, condors and sea lions are running, swimming and flying around. 

Ushuaia is a fantastic birding destination. Billy Heaney stopped in Ushuaia just for a day before his Antarctic cruise and saw 10 bird species he had never seen before. He spotted chimango caracaras, kelp geese, dolphin gulls and even giant petrels simply by wandering along the waterfront close to the port. I counted at least six Andean condors soaring up in the sky while simply waiting for a taxi. Just a normal day in Ushuaia.

The city isn't just close to nature, it is in the middle of it. If one can be so lucky as to spot birds within the city borders, one can imagine the birding opportunities in the forests and mountains outside the urban area. Tierra del Fuego National Park is an outstanding place for birdwatching. Spotting the lively thorn-tailed rayadito or pausing to hear the drumming of a Magellanic woodpecker are experiences that capture the park's wild spirit.

Martillo Island in the Beagle Channel is a renowned sanctuary for Magellanic and gentoo penguins. Between October and April, you can take a boat tour to Martillo Island to visit the colony. Of course, it isn't Antarctica, and the colony isn't very big, but how often does one get a chance to admire penguins roaming around in their natural habitat?

Tierra del Fuego is a paradise for food lovers. Fresh seafood includes highlights such as king crab and buttery Patagonian toothfish (merluza negra). The region is also renowned for its cordero patagónico, lamb slow-roasted over an open fire until tender and smoky. Argentine wines pair beautifully with any meal. Locally crafted gin infused with native botanicals and Ushuaia’s craft beers add a distinctly southern touch. For dessert, indulge in Patagonia’s famous artisan chocolates or stop by one of the many cosy bakeries for a generous slice of cake.

The summer months (from December to February) bring long daylight hours, mild temperatures averaging 10–15°C, and the best conditions for outdoor exploration. Summer is the ideal time for hiking, sailing the Beagle Channel and visiting Tierra del Fuego National Park. It's also the peak season for cruises to Antarctica, which typically depart between November and March. If you plan to visit Ushuaia during the peak season, be sure to book your accommodation well in advance to get the best prices and a good range of options.

Autumn (March–May) and spring (September–November) are shoulder seasons with fewer visitors and lower prices. The weather can be unpredictable, ranging from calm, crisp days to sudden snowfalls, but the changing colours and peaceful atmosphere make autumn and spring rewarding times to visit.

Winter (June–August) transforms Ushuaia into a snow-covered wonderland with skiing and snowshoeing opportunities in the nearby mountains, although daylight hours are shorter and temperatures hover around 0°C.