West Greenland Destination Overview

With timing that made coincidence seem laughable, in front the glistening rounded flank of a giant iceberg dimpled like a golf ball, a humpback whale surfaced, announcing its arrival with a fountaining blow of seawater. I was sailing among an armada of ghostly white icebergs offshore of Ilulissat in the funkily named Disko Bay. The humpback lingered for a while before arching its back and diving vertically, its crescent-shaped tail rose skywards and then slowly slid below into the frigid depths. There were screams of excitement on deck. Wildlife photography had never felt so easy.

Greenland is known by the majority Inuit population as Kalaallit Nunaat, or ‘land of the people’. They administer the world’s largest island autonomously from under Danish rule. There are few roads, and the vast empty interior hosts a permanent ice sheet that is 3 kilometres deep. Thus travel by ship around Greenland’s epic 44,000 kilometres of coastline is the only way to explore rugged fjords, glaciers, islands, and bays. West Greenland currently attracts more cruise options than the eastern coast during a short season in the northern hemisphere summer. 

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Map

West Greenland Map


When and how to Travel

Weather: The temperatures are relatively mild, ranging from 5°C to 15°C (41°F to 59°F), making it a comfortable time for outdoor activities. During this period, you can experience the midnight sun, where the sun never sets, providing extended daylight hours for exploration and activities.

Wildlife: This is an excellent time for spotting wildlife, including whales, seals, and various bird species.

Scenery: The perfect time to see glaciers and fjords. This is also the time for exploring the Ilulissat Icefjord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Weather: The temperatures are relatively mild, ranging from 5°C to 15°C (41°F to 59°F), making it a comfortable time for outdoor activities. During this period, you can experience the midnight sun, where the sun never sets, providing extended daylight hours for exploration and activities.

Wildlife: This is an excellent time for spotting wildlife, including whales, seals, and various bird species.

Scenery: The perfect time to see glaciers and fjords. This is also the time for exploring the Ilulissat Icefjord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Weather: The temperatures are relatively mild, ranging from 5°C to 15°C (41°F to 59°F), making it a comfortable time for outdoor activities. During this period, you can experience the midnight sun, where the sun never sets, providing extended daylight hours for exploration and activities.

Wildlife: This is an excellent time for spotting wildlife, including whales, seals, and various bird species.

Scenery: The perfect time to see glaciers and fjords. This is also the time for exploring the Ilulissat Icefjord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The west coast remains ice-bound for much of the winter and spring months even if the Sarfaq Ittuk gamely ploughs onwards from April to January. Most voyages are focused between July to September, when days are long and the midnight sun smoulders. Even so, during this time voyagers will encounter humongous icebergs drifting south after discharging from the Ice-Fjord. Later season travellers, with favourable clear skies, may witness the spectacle of the northern lights.

Because of the length of this vast coastline summer temperatures vary significantly, especially as you dip below the Arctic Circle, further south, and start to see the scrubby greenery that prompted an overexcited Erik the Red to name this frozen island ‘green’ when he first discovered it in the late 900s AD. The average summer temperature is around 10ºC, which can feel pleasantly warm on wind-free days. I’ve certainly strolled around Ilulissat in the summer months sweating and peeling off layers because I had overdressed.


Sustainability and the region

There’s an extraordinary statistic that if Greenland’s ice sheet was to melt the global sea level rise from its stored freshwater would amount to 7.4metres. That melting is underway. Research published in early 2024 suggests the ice sheet is melting at around 193 square kilometres each year. Some economic benefits such as cheaper hydroelectric power are touted yet I have spoken to west coast people who regret changes to their old ways. On Disko Island, which took me seven-hours to reach by ferry from Ilulissat, I met a local hunter, Kale Mølgaard, who recalled he used to travel the same route in the 1990s during winter by dogsled. But within a decade this winter sea ice bridge had disappeared all-year round. It means islanders could no longer hunt around ice-holes for seals. Rest assured though, a small expedition cruise down the coast is not impacting West Greenland’s melting ice sheet. This is a global issue and a greater contribution to lessening climate change can be made by altering lifestyles back home. Hopefully travelling to this region will create a feeling of ambassadorship for Greenland, to speak out against the forces causing its ice-melt. I would ask your cruise operator before signing-up whether they offer citizen science projects. On a previous voyage I got involved with measuring freshwater input into the sea, ergo the impact of ice sheet melting at Disko Bay. The data may feel like a drop in the ocean, but it shows a willingness to contribute to research, which cumulatively can help scientists look at long term changes along this beautiful and rugged coast.




Ship types

A small expedition vessel is the optimal way to explore West Greenland’s coast. Even better with a balcony cabin to really feel close to the environment and to listen out for the rasp of the humpback’s blow, which carries far in the icy quiet. Choose a trip where the ship has plenty of off-ship activities and a professional photographer, which is helpful for wildlife photography and if lucky, techniques to capture aurora borealis.


Activities

Typically on a good expedition cruise you will take zodiac rides to seek out nature and enjoy hiking excursions. One popular walk is to the abandoned settlement of Sermermiut alongside the breath-taking Ice-Fjord. Otherwise there will be time to birdwatch and whale watch from deck and attend lectures onboard about nature and the Inuit culture of this coast. Some cruises may offer kayaking. Consider also extracurricular excursions that can be paid for as you sail, or attempted at the end of the voyage. This could be a flight over the ice sheet, or even camping on it under the stars. In the early or late summer season, snowmobile rides or dog-sledding trips may be possible, while fishermen take guests out into Disko Bay to try their hand at line-fishing for halibut and Arctic char.


Wildlife

Polar bear: These hulking carnivores top every visitor’s wishlist. Big males can grow to a staggering 800kg. But do not expect to see them easily on the western coast, especially near settlements, because quotas still exist to hunt them for food.

Muskox: I have seen these bison-like herbivores on every visit to Greenland’s west coast, especially around Kangerslussuaq fjord. Their thick coats can withstand temperatures as low as -45ºC.

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What to Pack

Clothing

The further north your vessel ventures the colder the conditions. It can be challenging to pack. The ever-popular Ilulissat is 280 kilometres above the Arctic Circle, yet I’ve had T-shirt days in summer. Then, on the same day there, I rode a zodiac among Disko Bay’s icebergs and felt perishingly cold. Expedition cruises usually provide a good waterproof coat, so consider:

  • For the upper body, a base layer that wickers away sweat, thick sweater, and a ‘down’-style padded jacket beneath the waterproof jacket.
  • For lower body, fleece-lined leggings, hiking trousers, and good quality waterproof over-trousers, especially for a zodiac ride in choppier sea. And of course, thick socks.
  • Accoutrements will include a thick fleece hat, a buff or warm scarf for the neck, and waterproof gloves.
  • For warmer days, cotton T-Shirts, sunglasses, a baseball cap if on land, and always high factor SPF.
  • Gaiters are ideal for hiking across the boggy tundra.
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Reading List

In his own words, the Norwegian legend’s account of his first crossing of Greenland on skis in 1888.

The First Crossing Of Greenland By Fridtjof Nansen

Published in the 1920s the Greenlandic explorer’s epic recall of his Arctic adventures.

Greenland By The Polar Sea By Knud Rasmussen

A little-known story of the indigenous settlements and explorations of this unheralded coast by a polar expert.

Lands That Hold One Spellbound A Story Of East Greenland By Spencer Apollonio

A beautiful and all-encompassing narrative featuring the now changing culture of Inuit civilisation.

This Cold Heaven Seven Seasons In Greenland By Gretel Ehrlich

Expert Tips

If you’ve dreamed of seeing aurora borealis then choose a voyage a little later in the season, such as September, when darker nights usher in. Darkness and clear sky nights are the keys to witnessing this phantasmagorical spectacle. Photographing the lights can be spectacular but it’s not straightforward. 

An expensive camera is not a precursor for success. A tripod and a relatively sharp wide-angle lens are a must. I have an inexpensive sigma 14-24mm with a sharp f2.8 aperture and it does the job. The first step before mounting your camera on a tripod is to consider the perspective of your shot. Photographs look better with an object in the frame, perhaps a mountain, forest edge, your ship, or a building, rather than just pointing skywards. When ready, a higher ISO is required, usually between 1000-2000 depending on how bright the aurora is. A shutter speed set below 10 seconds gives a crisper image and set your f-stop at 4 or above to allow sufficient light. For a steadier depression of the shutter-release I’d recommend a hands-off cable-extension, so you don’t disturb your shot.  My last time trying to photograph them was in Arctic Sweden. I was out around midnight when it was really dark. My hands were freezing, and my camera batteries drained fast. To that end, warm gloves, spare batteries, and a flask of hot drink will extend your own battery life!

For a really spectacular combination for keen photographers, I would consider looking at voyages that combine Western Greenland to Arctic Canada around the mouth of the Northwest Passage. Crossing the Davis Strait between Canada and Greenland is an extraordinary adventure and great sea voyage. Reaching Baffin Island, with even sparser settlements, offers an absolute wildlife treat.