East Greenland

My first exposure to wild East Greenland was twenty years ago when I was staying in the coastline’s largest settlement, Tasiilaq, in the southeast region known as Ammassalik, home to the Tunumiit Inuit culture. Two Danish fishermen took me north on their small boat, where they planned to fish for Arctic char. It was May and cold. And with little warning a fierce onshore wind locked the fractured sea ice shut and we were trapped to spend a night on the floe under a chilly full moon. Next morning, the wind changed direction and it magically unlocked, and no harm was done, although I missed my flight back to Iceland. This coast is beholden to nature’s elements, so travellers to it should expect the unexpected.

Rest assured these days there is no need to float on the icefloe to experience East Greenland’s wild side because a number of comfortable expedition cruise ships capture its pioneering spirit of adventure. Some vessels enter from Iceland, crossing the Denmark Strait, then sail north towards Scoresby Sound via the dark-walled sea-cliffs of the Blosseville Coast. Other options include longer and wonderful explorations crossing the Greenland Sea from the east after a tour of Svalbard. A few vessels venture further north beyond the mighty King Oscar Fjord towards the high-latitude national park, where ships will travel through pack ice and hikers can experience pristine wilderness on foot. If you are planning to visit, don’t forget a major solar eclipse on this coastline in August 2026.

Walrus: The north and eastern parts of Greenland deliver fine chances to see the largest member of the Arctic seal community. Known by the Inuit as Aaveq, large male walrus may bulk out to two-tonnes in weight, which is maintained by a diet of mussels and molluscs.

Other wildlife: Over such a colossal territory it isn’t always straightforward to spot wildlife but there is an interesting diversity. Besides polar bears and walruses, chances exist to see reindeer, Arctic hares, and Arctic foxes, while whale life is abundant. Greenland sharks, though, which live to an astonishing 250-500 years, are deep living leviathans who will never be seen.

Birdlife 

An estimated 60 species of birds breed in North East Greenland National Park and checklists will feature geese, raptors, waders, ducks, and seabirds. Chances of seeing a magnificent snowy owl in the far north are remote but guillemots, fulmars, and kittiwakes are common at sea while expect eider, ptarmigans, and snow geese, to be spotted by the vessel’s expert onboard naturalists.

Whale watching

East Greenland’s waters are a productive feeding zone for a great diversity of whales that can be a highlight of any voyage. The great entertainers, humpback whales, as always are most likely to put on a show with their breaching and tail dive displays while it is not impossible to see smaller beluga or narwhal. Dreamers may also get their wish of chance encounters with the great baleens, like fin whales or even the mighty blue.

Footwear:

Since there are chances to hike, you may prefer to bring boots with a little more substantial ankle support than the ship-supplied muck boots supplied to you throughout.

• Hiking boots are also handy for on deck, which can be wet or icy when outside wildlife-watching.

• Comfortable and casual footwear for indoors during mealtimes and lectures.