Our ship’s early spring departure on October 3 meant it was the first passenger ship into Antarctica that season. Leaving behind the frosted peaks and twinkling harbour lights of Ushuaia, on the southern tips of Argentina, the Greg Mortimer sailed slowly along the Beagle Channel before turning west towards Cape Horn and the Drake Passage.

The Drake, a 600-mile body of water where the Atlantic and Pacific oceans meet, is the stuff of shipwreck legend and a rite of passage that makes the prize, Antarctica, feel extra special.

You could get lucky with ‘Drake Lake,’ but it’s more likely to be something between the ‘shake’ and ‘lake’. The early icebreaker vessels that carried the first tourists to the Antarctic Peninsula have made way for purpose-built expedition ships that comfortably carry their passenger cargo. At peak Drake, we hit seven-metre waves, but Greg Mortimer’s inverted X-Bow handled it well.

During our crossing, there was no discernible noise, vibration, or lift and thud ‘slamming’ that exacerbates the discomfort of a rough sea crossing. On half a Kwell, I managed to walk around, attend wildlife lectures, and eat three meals through the six—to seven-metre swell. But there were plenty who holed up in their cabins for the best part of two days.

We reaped the benefits of an early sailing. Sea ice lingered but didn’t disrupt our itinerary. Huge wind-weathered icebergs lurched from pools of cerulean blue. We enjoyed long, light days that segued into spectacular rose-gold sunsets. During our eight days in the Southern Ocean, we saw only one other vessel—a working ship called the Albatross.

Each day brings fresh insight from a crack team of wildlife experts and opportunities to explore – on foot, snowshoes, kayak or zodiac, and possibly by submarine or helicopter, depending on your ship. Penguins steal the show ashore, but there are historical sights too, including the remnants of whaling stations and researcher and explorer huts.

Port Lockroy, on Goudier Island, was the birthplace of the British Antarctic Survey. It’s now a post office and living museum complete with work tools, meteorology equipment, posters of mid-century movie stars and a kitchen with an aga, jars of military pickle, boxes of blancmange powder and recipes books for meals including fricassee of shag and seal brains on toast (one prepared seal brain, three reconstituted eggs, one dessert spoon of tomato sauce, three ounces of butter, some grated cheese and a little nutmeg). I would’ve been happy with dry bread on board that night.

Back on deck, I was soon joined by a pair of snowy sheathbills who flapped and flirted, nodding their heads furiously in a mating ritual. I shed a layer and felt the spring sunshine warm my back. Coffee could wait.

Other wildlife
This incredible sea, referred to as the 'world's aquarium' by legendary explorer and conservationist Jacques-Yves Cousteau, is home to an amazing 900 species of fish and sharks, of which 90 are endemic. The Sea of Cortez's rich biodiversity is also evident in the variety of fish species it hosts, including parrotfish, angelfish, damselfish, and many more, which make for excellent snorkeling and diving experiences from your expedition ship.

Birdlife
There are also many species of resident and migratory birds, with some of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed islands hosting much of the global population of the Heermann's gull, blue-footed booby and blackstorm petrels.

Whale watching
The sea is home to an incredible 39% of the world's total species of marine mammals, and 30% of the world's marine cetaceans (whales, dolphins, and porpoises) can be found here.

The Gulf is in fact a breeding ground for multiple whale species, including humpback whales, blue whales (the largest animals on Earth), and gray whales. The area provides unique opportunities for whale watching, especially during the winter months when they migrate to these warmer waters to breed and give birth.

Whale sharks, the gentle giants of the ocean, can often be found in the Sea of Cortez, especially around La Paz Bay. Swimming alongside these massive, yet harmless, filter feeders is a must-do activity for many expedition visitors.

Large pods of dolphins, including the common dolphin and the bottlenose dolphin, can be seen in the cobalt-blue waters of the Sea of Cortez. These intelligent creatures are often a highlight for expedition visitors too.

• Scopolamine patches, bands, or other sea sickness medication for the Drake Passage
• Long-sleeve fleece or heat tech tops for shore visits
• Fleece-lined hat
• Small backpack for excursions
• Water bottle
• Binoculars
• Sunglasses and/or ski goggles
• Face sunscreen and lip balm
• All the camera lenses (if you have them)
• Carry case for phone for easy access
• Small drybag for precious kit
• Casual, comfy footwear to wear onboard 
• Slip-ons, sliders, or Crocs for easy footwear changes when going ashore
• Swimwear for the spa or the ‘polar plunge’ if feeling brave