You may not be particularly interested in photography before an expedition cruise, but there’s a good chance you will be by the end.

These trips visit some of the world’s most sensational landscapes and come with virtual guarantees of wildlife encounters – even if you’re a total amateur, chances are this will be a great time to improve your photography.

To that end, most operators employ photography guides to help explain, interpret, and instruct on best practices. Much of my year is spent on assignment shooting for the likes of National Geographic Traveller and the Financial Times, while my work has also appeared in the New York Times, Outside Magazine, and newspapers around the world. When on board working as a photo guide, I share knowledge learned on those trips with passengers, helping them understand the demands of working in the field, as well as various tricks to improve their shots. 

Many of the tips apply equally, whether shooting polar bears in the Arctic, penguins in the Antarctic, or whales anywhere in between. While much can be taught on the trips, occasionally, people – myself included – arrive underprepared for what lies ahead. Below is a list of equipment and advice I wish I’d had before starting out on my first expedition cruise.

 

Photography in Antarctica Jamie Lafferty
Photographing ice sheets in Antarctica: photo credit jamie lafferty

Equipment

Tripods

Even lightweight tripods can be bulky items to bring on polar trips. Some airlines – especially in Argentina – do not allow them to be carried on as hand luggage. The chances to actually use them can also be rare. Useless on ships and with night-time excursions generally impossible, they’re only really handy for anyone looking to take long-exposure shots on gloomy days on shore, or when used in conjunction with a neutral density filter (see below).

Filters

The primary filters that may be useful on a polar trip are the neutral density filter—which can provide beautiful cloud textures and interesting effects with water—and the polariser. The latter provides especially satisfying shots when looking to capture the blue bellies of icebergs—it’s worth experimenting from both the decks of the ship and any zodiac cruises through ice fields. 

Batteries

Cold weather famously drains batteries far quicker than normal. Before leaving, be sure to have reserve batteries and, when you’re on the ship, get into the habit of charging them every night, if not between excursions. Just don’t forget to make sure they’re back in your camera – it’s a common mistake to rush out and forget to lift the battery.

Memory Cards

Expeditions to the polar regions provide some of the best photographic opportunities in the world. For first-time visitors especially, there will be a tendency to overshoot. Memory cards are generally cheap now, so be sure to bring spares rather than being caught short – this includes for extra devices like GoPros. Some ship shops carry spare cards, but stock levels are rarely guaranteed at these latitudes. As with the batteries, get in the habit of checking how much space you have on your card before heading out again.

External hard drive

If you plan on shooting a lot, bring an external hard drive to back up your photos and videos. If possible, get into a habit of doing this each night along with charging the batteries. Operations are always safe, but weather is unpredictable, and a rogue wave can quickly destroy a camera, phone, or memory card. It’d be wrong to lose even a day of photos, but exponentially worse if your whole trip is saved in just one place. 

USB

Often but not always available on ships, the humble USB stick can still be very useful for sharing photographs or collecting them from others on board. There is often a lot of link-sharing, but ship Wi-Fi is never guaranteed, and this now slightly archaic method can be more reliable. In the world of USB-C (especially common on Apple machines) be sure to bring one that’s adaptable. 

Waterproofing

Many decent camera bags have waterproofing or at least water-resistant casings, but when snow and rain is falling hard and the ocean is splashing into zodiacs, it’s much better to have a dedicated dry-bag, either for your individual bodies and lenses, or for your entire camera bag. Conditions can change quickly in the polar regions, so if you have one, be sure to take it on every landing to protect your gear. 

Antarctica Chinstrap by Jamie Lafferty
A Chinstrap Penguin Porpoising at Sea: photo credit Jamie Lafferty

Operations

Zodiac loading

Visits to polar regions typically only happen in summer, and while forecasting models are more accurate than ever before, weather can still be unpredictable and inclement. This can challenge every element of outings, but the loading of zodiacs should be smooth to get things off to a good start. These durable motorised dinghies are the cornerstone of all polar expedition operations, and understanding how to enter safely and exit is vital to a successful trip.

Many photographers are tempted to come to the gangway laden with their equipment, but this should never be the case. Cameras should start inside bags, which should be handed to the sailors in charge of the zodiacs. Freeing both hands for a safe entry into the boat is a priority – your equipment will join you seconds after you’ve followed the driver’s instructions and sat down. The same is true for returning to the ship: put your gear away, hand the bag to the zodiac driver, follow instructions, and walk back onto the ship when told it is safe.

 

Zodiac transfer

Almost all operations in the polar regions require being on a zodiac. Around half of these will be transfers from ship to shore. Occasionally, these will be combined with a little cruising in scenic bays or through ice fields, but often, they are much more practical, high-speed taxis. It doesn’t quite go without saying that these are not ideal times for using cameras. Usually, drivers will let you know if they are about to travel at high speed, but you should always err on the side of caution and keep your camera in a bag when not using it. Saltwater is the enemy of all electronics, and you are ultimately responsible for your own equipment.

Zodiac cruise

Typically much more relaxed than transfers, zodiac cruises are a great time to take photographs. The same rules for loading, unloading, and high-speed maneuvers apply, but these trips are designed to help you get some great looks at the polar world. Be sure to ask your driver if it’s OK to stand up (you may not be able to see ice ahead or other incoming obstacles) and be aware of other passengers in the boat, but otherwise, get ready to shoot a lot. A potential downside is that with all the sitting down during these cruises, a lack of physical activity can make it easy to get cold, so be sure to wrap up warm before heading out.

Etiquette

Locked in the moment with some sensational wildlife or giddy with excitement about seeing a glacier calving, it can be easy to forget your surroundings. As difficult as it can be, be mindful of not just your environment and the animals but your fellow passengers, too. Listen to your expedition team – they want you to get the best photos you can, not sabotage you with boring rules. Don’t be selfish when it comes to positioning yourself in front of your subject, and always follow the basic rules of safe distances from the local fauna. This is all especially true in zodiacs where room is restricted. If you want a particular shot, ask the people around you rather than simply pushing yourself into position.

 

Rb King Penguins South Georgia Antarctica Jamie Lafferty Elephant Seal DSC03649 Copy 226
An elephant seal and King Penguin in south georgia: photo credit Jamie Lafferty

No lying/sitting

Not so many years ago, it was common to see photographers returning to expedition ships covered in mud or, worse, having been lying down on shore. These days, that is impossible, and since the rampant spread of highly pathogenic avian flu over the last couple of years, even sitting and crouching have been banned by reputable operators. While this is done for the safety of humans and animals alike – and to mitigate the spread of this terrible disease – it is also undeniably frustrating for people who are used to being able to get low, close to their subjects. 

As annoying as it may seem, there are some workarounds: anyone with flip-screen capability can still lean down to get lower shots at their subject’s eye level. Moreover, many great wildlife shots are taken from zodiacs, where you can slip down onto the floor, getting as low as possible. In addition, it’s common to see wildlife walking along ridges, handily elevating themselves to look large in the lens. Not being able to get on the ground – especially not being able to put gear other than tripods down – is frustrating, but with more mitigation, there’s a better chance that avian flu will evolve to be less of a concern in the future.


FAQs

This question varies from ship to ship and, to a degree, photographer to photographer. Some companies have a single instructor working on board to deliver lectures, offer advice in the field, teach workshops, photograph the expedition, and pull together slideshows at the end of the voyage. Others have split teams shooting commercially to sell packages at the end of trips, while others take care of the more educational side. In any case, reputable operators should employ at least one photography expert on each expedition, an experienced snapper who can teach the basics of photography, with extra content tailored for more advanced guests. Whether the photographs, a slide show, or video content are available at the end of the voyage will be up to the company. Ask individual operators before travelling to see if they cover your needs. 

A classic question with no answer. The majority of lenses and the cameras themselves have been made in Japan. They’ve then been exported to your country, and you’ve bought them in a shop. You’ve then packed that lens, brought it on a series of international flights to reach port, and then taken it onto the ship. The lens has had an incredible journey to get to the point of use, so the advice should always be to take every lens you own on every landing! 

If you can’t do that, have a look outside and see whether the landscape will likely be your focus or if it will be wildlife. If it’s the latter, go with the biggest lens you have – minimum safe distances from animals will always have to be maintained, and in the case of some, this will be over 100m. If you’ve got the big lens on and an animal like a penguin feels like it’s getting too close, move away or take detail shots. 

Many professionals work around which lens to take by carrying multiple bodies with multiple lenses already attached, avoiding the tricky business of switching lenses in the field. 

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Some locations do have a small amount of gear available, while in major port towns like Ushuaia, there are large, dedicated camera shops with broad selections.

Unfortunately, they tend to be savagely overpriced, and stock levels vary wildly over the course of the season. It is much better to take time before departing to make sure you have everything you need. 

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